Il Buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad...
Description
This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.
Five bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to an awkward clip, followed by an awkward move, a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.
If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well protected.
All in all a very memorable route!
Protection
8 bolts. 2 open shuts
Add PhotoPhotos of The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the ...
Jeff Crow just past the roof.
Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move
Add CommentComments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Show which comments —
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 18, 2006
I have actually gotten into the practice of placing a hand-sized piece of gear before attempting to clip the seventh bolt. The clip is super awkward--blowing the clip without the additional protection would be very bad.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 7, 2006
Crag Full of Dynamite
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