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Crag Full of Dynamite
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The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 

5.9

   

FA: O'Brien, Edwards (1992)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 649 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 17, 2006


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Il Buono, il brutto, il cattivo (The Good, the Bad...


Description 

This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.

Five bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to an awkward clip, followed by an awkward move, a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.

If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well protected.

All in all a very memorable route!


Protection 

8 bolts. 2 open shuts



Add Photo Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.

Cathy DeCecco enjoying The Good, the Bad, and the ...

Jeff Crow just past the roof.

Jeff Crow just past the roof.

Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move

Justin W, standing just above the crux roof move


Add Comment Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 18, 2006

I have actually gotten into the practice of placing a hand-sized piece of gear before attempting to clip the seventh bolt. The clip is super awkward--blowing the clip without the additional protection would be very bad.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 7, 2006

Best route at the crag. Good flick, too.