Excellent moderate sport routes. Zero Approach--belay from the hood of the car! Only enough climbing for a half-day but still worth the drive. This site offers an excellent escape from the usual weekend crowds at Gibraltar. The routes are all on typical (i.e. soft) Central Coast sandstone.
Perhaps the single best perk is the outstanding view into Los Padres, to the north.
Weather / Climbing Season
The site faces north making the site an ice box in the winter. Just beyond the reach of coastal cooling, the site can be sweltering in the summer. Consider Crag Full of Dynamite to be a mostly Spring/Fall crag.
Getting There
From Gibraltar Rock, drive uphill on Gibraltar Road for about five minutes. Turn Right on Camino Cielo and drive for approximately 6 miles (about ten minutes). The crag overlooks the road on the right hand side.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Crag Full of Dynamite:
This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.Five bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to an awkward clip, followed by an awkward move, a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well prote...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 8, 2009
"Excellent" might be a bit optimistic description of this crag. I'd rate it 1 out of 5 in overall quality and 2.5 out of 5 for the view. Certainly not a destination, but worth a quick visit if in the area. The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly is the best of the bunch. All 9 routes are visible in this Photo.
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