"Many Happy Returns" boasts unusually steep and we...
Description
Left of Orangahang is a lone bolt in the middle of the slab. Climb past and then head right towards the bolt and lieback. After liebacking the detached block, climb weird fingerlocks up the slab to the nice ledge. The route finishes just right of the 3rd class gully.
Protection
Like much of San Ysidro, the route is mixed, with bolts and trad placements. Down low, the route is a bit run out, but can be protected. Bolted anchors at the top.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 23, 2006 rating: 5.8
The Many Happy Returns rap-anchor was replaced in April, 2006. Two Rawl-style expansion bolts of unknown age were removed. One 1/2" Rawl-style five-piece expansion bolt and one Fixe 3/8" double-wedge expansion bolt were placed with stainless steel rappel rings.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 9, 2007 rating: 5.8
On the upper half of the route, I stem between the crack and various holds out left. This feels a couple of grades easier than the aforementioned "weird fingerlocks."
This is a great route and probably one of my local favorites!
The crux for me is the slabby part from the first bolt to the stance to clip the second. The physical crux is probably the steep face/lieback part from the 2nd bolt to the nice ledge.
A light rack will do. A .75 and a 1 BD camalot protect the lieback well. I don't recall using any other pro, but its been a while since I've done this one.
By Brian From: Wakefield, RI Sep 14, 2009 rating: 5.8
Don't know much about local ratings but this is an east coast 5.8.
By Jeff Mahoney From: Santa Barbara, CA Sep 14, 2009
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