On the left side of the main wall is a blank face with a fixed pin and a bolt. 20' of delicate slab climbing leads to a more moderate (5.5) trad finish.
Protection
There are now two nice bolts at the top. The piton is ~40 years old, but has recently held falls. Who knows, maybe you'll be the lucky one who gets a souvenir. Frequently toproped by climbing up the 5.5 to the right.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 9, 2007 rating: 5.11a/b
According to the late Reese Martin (as of 1999), "The fixed pin is now rock solid. Clip it and you're in fat city."
Glued in perhaps?
UPDATE: I looked very closely at the piton and there is definitely what appears to be capsule-style glue around the hole where the piton penetrates the rock.
The bottom 15 feet of this route is very height dependent. Shorter climbers will find it very hard to move between the various positive holds.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jan 2, 2008
Well, it seems this crowd-pleaser slab climb is still living up to its name: the holds just keep vanishing. I climbed it this last weekend and noticed a conspicuous lack of certain holds, particularly the "rest" hold (diagonal rail/crimp to the left of the bad pocket) about 8 or 9 feet up. Is the climb now harder? It was for me, but that's only because my traditional sequence was botched due to the lack of the hold. I'd appreciate some outside consensus other than my narrow, chagrined perspective.
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