By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 24, 2009 rating: 5.7
CONDITION REPORT
Following the Jesusita fire, that burned up and over this formation, the glue-in bolts atop this route are loose. They can both be rotated slightly in their holes.
Do not trust these bolts...and stay tuned for a replacement.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 2, 2006 rating: 5.7
This is a fun and aesthetic little route. As EricT says, IF ONLY this dihedral extended for a nice long pitch...
This is an excellent beginner's trad route EXCEPT for a 15-20 foot runout at the start on 5.6 terrain. This can be protected by placing a 3-3.5" piece at the bottom of the crack while on rappel. Next, clip one of the strands (above your rappel device) to this piece. Then pull the end of the rope that is clipped. When your rope falls, it will be pre-clipped through the first piece of gear. Lead away!
The top of this route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins that were placed in 2003. These can be backed up by extending a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt which is set five feet back from the edge of the cliff.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Mar 17, 2008
I agree, this is a great beginner trad route. The crux, while exciting, protects very well.
Quality line. The crux protects well if you bring the small cams along (maybe blue TCU-ish?) Rack for sewing the thing up would probably be about a single set from blue tcu to #4 new style camalot. Could skip about every other size easily. Fun climb, easy access, why not?
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