| Santa Barbara |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking out at Santa Barbara (mainly UCSB) and the...
Getting There Santa Barbara is a low-key town an hour north of Los Angeles. Take the 101 north and you go right through town.
Description Santa Barbara has a large number of short cliffs scattered about the ridgeline behind the city. The rock is dense sandstone of mixed quality and primarily bolted. Like San Luis Obispo, it's not a destination area, but good routes exist. The rock is soft, and softer when wet, so please respect the one day of drying for each day of rain rule. Guidebooks currently available in local stores:
- Rock Climbing Santa Barbara & Ventura by Steve Edwards (well put together and still quite complete, covers roped routes as well as the major bouldering areas)
- Ocean's Eleven - Bouldering around Santa Barbara by Bob Banks (brand spankin' new!)
And a guidebook not currently available in stores, but obtainable on Ebay, Amazon, etc:
- "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele. A fabulous text that pays ample homage to Santa Barbara's traditional roots. A little outdated in some areas, but a gem of adventurous and off-the-beaten-track routes nonetheless. It's out of print, so happy searching!
Here's some additional climbing related links with a local flair:
- www.king-dino.com: catalogue of climbing and assorted adventure from guidebook author Bob Banks.
- www.crankenstein.com: let burly sport climber and Owl Tor afficionado Elijah Ball show you what's rad, and what's not. Topics range from climbing to freediving to weightlifting.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Santa Barbara:
Browse More Classics in Santa Barbara
Featured Route For Santa Barbara
Pelicans near Santa Barbara. Photo by Blitzo.
| Looking east from near La Cumbre Peak, above Gibra...
| Tarantula, photographed on a climbing outing in Sk...
| Coast Live Oak, following one of the recent fires ...
| Sunset over the Santa Barbara Channel. Santa Cruz ...
| Beautiful Santa Barbara
| Mission Santa Barbara
| Climbing at the Splashzone
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| Comments on Santa Barbara |
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By Nathan Fisher Feb 2, 2006
| Nice to see Santa Barbara make it here. I first climbed here when my brother introduced me to the sport in 1984. Man that was some years back. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Santa Cruz, CA May 16, 2006
| For single-pitch sport climbing, you've got several options in and around SB:
- Wheeler Gorge - on the way to Sespe along Hwy 33 - a good variety from 5.8 to mid 5.11 on 3 distinct rock types. Nice when it's hot, right along creek. About an hour or so from SB.
- Little Lebowski - a good half day's worth. Short routes. A 15 min walk, just off W Camino Cielo.
- Fire Crags - a good half day's worth. Nice views. Short routes, short approach. Right off 154 at Painted Cave.
- Crag Full 'o Dynamite - zero approach, about a dozen short, fun routes literally right on the road. 15 minutes drive past Upper Gibraltar.
An hour and a half to the north, San Luis Obispo has some fun climbing on entirely different rock than the Santa Barbara/Ojai/Ventura variety. The best routes are on Bishop Peak and the [currently closed] Cerro Romualdo. Pretty much the only multipitch climbing within 3 hours of Santa Barbara is at Sespe Gorge. Ending Crack is the best of the lot. Tahquitz/Suicide offers many fantastic multipitch routes, but it's a 3.5 hr drive from SB directly through L.A. Tollhouse Rock is another option for multipitch, but again, it's a good 5-hr drive, you're almost better off going to Yosemite. |
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 19, 2007
| Actually, there are a number of awesome multi-pitch routs in S.B.: Cathedral Peak (adventuresome 3 pitch 5.7), Upper Gibraltar (2 pitch 5.10b), and a number of others... |
By Adele From: Golden, CO Sep 20, 2008
| Has anyone found any new rock since the fire? |
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Oct 29, 2008
| As of Fall 2008, much of the climbing on West Camino Cielo is closed due to some sort of post-fire mulch operation instituted by the Forest Service. Lizard's Mouth is still open, but places like the Brickyard and the Playground are off-limits until (apparently) next Fall. Please respect the Forest Service's wishes and don't climb the closed areas. There's plenty of other rock in the area. |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA May 27, 2009
| The Jesusita Fire, which destroyed more than 8700 acres, has had a dramatic effect on Santa Barbara climbing sites. Upper Rattlesnake and Upper Cold Springs Canyons suffered severe damage. The entire Gibraltar Area, including Cold Springs Dome, has burned. To see photos of the Gibraltar Area after the fire, click here |
By Rob Riggleman From: Santa Barbara, CA May 28, 2009
| There is a trail restoration day planned for June 13th for many of the trails affected by the Jesusita fire. Not too many details on the organization of the day yet, but the general plan is to meet at Skofield park and then set out to work on the Jesusita, Tunnel, Rattlesnake, and the West Fork of the Cold Springs trails. Check this blog for further updates. |
By burlap submariner Jun 25, 2010
| coming to santa barbara this winter to surf and looking to climb in the san ysidro area and other surrounding crags. Is there relative cheap camping/blm land in the immediate area or close buy? Also where is the best good eats/beers nearby? Muchas gracias. =Casey |
By Jan Roestel Sep 20, 2010
| Bob and Andy are spot on. Post the link on the Brickyard and Lizard Mouth pages. |
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