Friction your way up to the first bolt. Stay left of the bolt and go up. It's pretty thin for a couple of moves above the first bolt. Shallow monos & pasty feet. Move up into the hole and go straight up from there. It will hit you with a second cruxy section around the third bolt.
Protection
Three bolts and a large cam for the hole inbetween the 1st and 2nd bolt. Use either of Shadows two bolt anchors. The Right side set is better aligned with the climb.
hard crux but well protected. (1st bolt) . the optional cam placement only protects around 5.6 /5.7 moves but you could deck if you blow it getting up to the 2nd bolt . after the 3rd bolt it is 5.9+ but nowhere near as hard as the start . halfway between the 3rd bolt and the chains there is a bolt just left of the route that can be clipped to minimize the runout to the chains . very nice route....
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Sep 12, 2005
Vincent -- good lead! The way I like to do it is to traverse up and left after the third bolt, finishing as for Shadow. Done this way (and using the #3 Camalot between bolts 1 and 2), it's pretty well-protected (at least by Bishop Peak standards!).
This route deserves more attention then it gets. One of the best. Much more sequential than most other routes. Reminds me of the bottom section of Lama. Excellent.
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