BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...
Description
This climb was originally on site "flashed" in 1981 by Tim Sorenson & Jeff Shrimpton. Bolts were placed on lead. The route was previously rated 5.10b(R) in the Tucker/Steele book. The Slater guide rates it at 5.10a(R). For the longest time, you had to bring your own hangers if you wanted to climb this route. As late as 1994, the Steele book was recommending that you bring hangers just in case! Don't worry, the hangers are all there today.
After dislodging a massive boulder and unleashing it onto the access trail below, my partner decided he would tackle this climb. After multiple falls off at the third bolt, it was sent and turned into a great climb. Better if you taunt, "I sure hope they went back and got the hangers they ran out of."
When viewed from the base, especially the left side, this is an intimidating looking route. That is a reason it is one of the best Bishop's has to offer. There may be no where else in the area you can get a full pitch of arete climbing and the unique exposure it offers. Plus it is essentially lichen-free. All the way from bolt #1 to bolt #5 the route is quite sustained with no move being trivial, easing a bit at the end when fatigue is catching up. The only detraction at all is a loose section on the left side between bolt 2 and 3; one must tread lightly on the holds there. With a 50 meter rope you must terminate the route at the anchors above Stage Fright, so angle left after the last bolt.
I do not believe this route deserves an R rating and may unnecessarily scare people from attempting the route. Bolts are where they need to be. The route is PG13 at most, a soft 10a, and a beautiful climb.
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