Rusty's Cave starts on the right side of the P-Wall near the detached buttress. The start is marked by a big pocket about 7 feet up. Climb the slab up to the diagonal crack and your first placement. Follow the uneven shallow crack for about 45 feet. Look for the first chance to traverse left(don't go to high). Clip the bolt and continue left for the small cave/ledge and the anchor.
Protection
Nuts and TCUs plus one bolt. Two bolt anchor with rap chains
This is a great route! You can get a small cam into the back of the large hole at the bottom for a multi directional. The hand crack in the middle as awesome. It sucks up nuts or cams for bomber placements. The blocky terrain before the traverse takes gear well also. I placed a large nut and medium cam up a little high then down climbed a move and did the traverse. Don't go too high. The bolt is just around the corner as soon as you can go left. Go up and then left from the bolt. I ended up just above the chains and had to step down to them. The chains and bolts are not in great condition but John Knight has them on his list to replace. Use double slings on almost all the pieces because the route wanders so much. Sit in the cave and enjoy the view and the solitude before coming down.
This is an allright route. The best part is most definitely the belay position. there is another pitch to this that goes at 5.7 and follows a shallow seam you face climb around and place crappy wires in. bring your moss edging shoes for this pitch.
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