Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
P-Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Black Streak 
Dark Side of the Moon 
Dyno Dogs 
Garden Party 
Hanging Teeth 
Impacted Stool Crack 
Indecent Exposure 
Knee Surgery 
Leapin' Lizards 
Letterman 
Oh My! 
Out of Hangers 
P-Crack 
P-Wall Direct 
Pump Floyd 
Route Canal 
Rusty's Cave 
Slime and Dine 
Spring Route 
Stage Fright 

Impacted Stool Crack 

5.9

   

FA: Richard Harrison
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 411 page views

Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 1, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...


Description 

Stout lead. The bottom is low angle (and mostly soloable for 5.9 leader) and is the start for P Crack as well, but instead of heading left, go up.


Protection 

1 manky bolt plus 1.5"-2.5"



Comments on Impacted Stool Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Hill
Feb 9, 2004
rating: 5.10a

This is the best, and most honest, hand crack in the Morros that is on legally accessible rock. I say that it is honest because you really need to know how to set solid hand and foot jams - there's no faking it like on P-Crack. For me it is both thumbs up and thumbs down jams, but it will depend on the size of your hands. My personal variation is to traverse from the top of the crack over to Out of Hangers and on up to those anchors. It is probably 5.10a to go this way and slightly run out between the routes. Now if only that crack were just a little bit longer...

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 23, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Traversing right to join P-Crack may be 10a, but climbing straight up to the anchor after the crack peters out (as indicated in the photo) is decidedly difficult and should be considered a very serious undertaking on lead. There is a single bolt above the crack, but the crux occurs a good 20-25' above. The crack itself is perhaps 5.9.

By Bob Hill
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.10a

Indeed, to go straight up and out of the Stool Crack is very serious climbing. A good way to go that I am fond of is to trend left after the crack ends to the "Out of Hangers" line and finish up at those anchors. This is probably .10a or so. As Mike indicates, the crack itself is straight-in, 5.9 hands. If done as described above, this is an excellent rock climb.

By J pee
From: Capitola, CA
Apr 3, 2007

I felt this route to be burlesque for 5.9. While the crack itself is short, it is full value. And yes, heading straight up to the anchors after clipping the bolt would be very serious. If you popped from high enough up, you would have a one way ticket to splatterville as the slab beneath the crack is low angle.