Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Cracked Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
60 Minutes 
60 Seconds Over Soledad 
Burn Permit 
Camel 
Civilized Evil 
Crank You, Thank You 
Crankin' 
Curley Shuffle 
Dirty Rat's Crack 
Lama 
Mouse Maze 
Only Way To Fly 
Rat Race 
Western Airlines 

60 Seconds Over Soledad 

5.6

   

FA: Bob & Rusty Garing, 1970
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 493 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Jan 1, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Jeff on the sharp end.


Description 

Start just left of a scrawny-looking oak, up a prominent, discontinuous deep gash. Good quality, dark rock that protects well. Awkward climbing - the trick is not to get sucked in too deep. Head up towards the slot, up and left a to 2-bolt anchor (new chains with rings added 9/04). One stripped bolt was replaced with one stainless steel Fixe 12mm bolt at that time.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Comments on 60 Seconds Over Soledad Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Bullock
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.8-

OK we all call it 5.6 because that's what we read in the guide book. True, most of the route is easy 5 but we all know squezing out of the chimney and moving out onto the face is way harder than 5.6 especially if you are leading it. Compared to Yosemite routes like After 6, Munginella or The Great White Book it is harder. The 5.6 is a sand bag in my opinion. If you are going to lead it take my 5.8- rating up with you... you'll be glad you did.

By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Feb 23, 2004

I defintely think it's 5.6 if you have good crack technique.

By Marty Brenner
From: Durango, CO
Sep 16, 2006
rating: 5.6

Definitely 5.6. Remember that flares, offwidth, etc. seem to have a different rating system to them...

By John Knight
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.7+

This climb was originally called "Dead Rats Crack". That name got transmogrified into "Dirty Rats Crack" and somehow landed on the ramp about 50' to the right. Anyway, 60 Seconds was originally called Dead Rats Crack. Here's the description from one of the first ascentionists, Richard Pfost:

While attending Cuesta College during the spring of 1971, John Mitchell, Romeo Betita, and myself, traveled to Yosemite Valley and took climbing lessons for Spring Break. After a week of adventure, we were excited to find some hard rock in central California. The only problem is that we had to wait several weeks before going down to Ventura to Chouniard Equipment to get some gear. After spending what little money I had on a new rope, a few binears, Robbins boots, some pins and a hammer, we started tresspassing on every property that had any vertical face. Early in April 1971, after class, we ended up on Bishop's Peak. Walked up and liked the look of the crack system, geared up, set the bottom belay and started up. Other than the oder of throwing out the "dead rat" from an area of a perfect hand jam, it was a great climb for the three novices. We did it a number of times, including learning to go from pins to chokes. We ran into Rusty Garing and his dad Bob several times up on the side of Bishop's Peak. We became long-time friends.