* News as of Jan 2006 - This area is now CLOSED to climbing! **
*This area is very sensitive! Please climb carefully - the lichens on the rock are hundreds of years old and are being studied by biologists at CampSLO. We are treading dangerous relations with this area because of the destruction on the part of the climbers. **
This is the chunk of rock that presides of Camp San Luis Obispo as you head north on Highway 1 between SLO and Morro Bay. Many people might think that since the military has it, it's off limits. Not so!! Just call ahead [(805) 594-6510] to make sure they won't be target practicing and drive on in . . . the military folk are a bit confused by we climbers arriving, so don't be surprised if they act a bit confused about what to do with you.
But the rock! It's spectacular! Same kind of thing as Bishop Peak, but you're probably the only one out there, the approach is a bit longer and intuitive and what awaits you is the awesome wave rock formation. If you can climb hard, you are in paradise.
Be exceedingly nice to the folk you find on the base. They are keeping the access open as a service. No one says they have to make the rock available to the public.
Getting There
Drive north from Highway 101 on Highway 1 (the road from 101 is Santa Rosa, becomes Highway 1 as you drive out of town). As you come down the hill and around the bend, the large "Camp San Luis Obispo" signs are your clue to turn left onto the base. Tell the friendly men in uniform your intent and receive their directions. Don't mess around while you're there: it may be a reserve base, but those guys carry guns, doncha know.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cerro Romauldo:
I'd like to know the origins of the lichen story.I think this is a practical joke that got taken seriously by someone.The military uses smoke bombs, jeeps, water trucks, flares, etc. all over the hill and at the base of the rock. I can't believe that they'd be concerned about lichen. It's the same lichen that is on all of the sisters. Somehow I don't see it ever becoming extinct either.Ed Sampson said that lichen has grown over Inner Sanctum in a matter of 20 years so I don't think they're as sensitive as some think. Please don't spread rumors.Oh, and I've been there 100 times and never have I or my friends ever been searched.This is some of the best quality climbing in the county. If you go there, you'll become a believer.
-It "only" took 20 years for it to grow back on Inner Sanctum (seems like a long time to me). -Just because something is not endangered does not make it ok to destroy it. -Just because you have seen it, does not mean it is not endangered (I saw some Vernal Pool Fairy Shrimp in Paso Robles the other day). -Land managers care about destruction of resources, even if it isn't endangered.
Seems to me the best approach is just to tread lightly and it won't become an issue...It is so easy to let stuff be, and you never have to worry about jeopardizing access or wonder if you are doing the right thing.
I'm not a biologist but I did find that there are several species of lichens in our area, quite a few actually in the Los Osos / Morro Bay area. And everything is connected...lichens create habitat for other plants and animals. Do a search on "Tardigrades."
And you know those bitchen succulents we all have seen growing? Those are Dudleyas...one of them could be the endangered San Luis Dudleya.
Yes, all of these species are found commonly on the cliffs, although I am not sure that the serpentine dudleya would be found in the climbing areas since it is not serpentine rock.
There are many other rare plants and animals at Camp SLO and other areas that climbers frequent around here. But whether or not they are rare has nothing to do with whether treading lightly is the way to go - it is simply a good land ethic to live by...
The origins come from a guy named Kevin Knight emailing me about my comments on this site that said something along the lines of the route being mungy and needing more climbers to clean the lichen off. I was chastised for this and told they were dangerous. There ARE folks that survey and watch the growth of plants - just because you're not interested, don't think for a moment that these other people are not. Good stewardship says "tread lightly and carry a stick clip." Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Oh, for what it's worth, John's running the site now so I don't look too often (and when you asked me about it, I was off in Indian Creek - neener neener) - it got done what needed being done - bringing people together for stewardship and route beta updating. Heck, it got people motivated to write a new guide.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 16, 2005
A confirmation of John Knight's comment 9.7.2004: we too had our vehicle thoroughly searched the other afternoon on one of the 'random' inspections. It took about 10 minutes and was no big deal. Just make sure to have all your paperwork (everyone's driver's licenses, vehicle registration, and proof of insurance) in order and be cooperative and compliant with the officers on duty and you should be okay.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 24, 2009
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