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Derrydale Cliff

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Exilis Dihedral 
Mammoth Poaching 

Derrydale Cliff


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Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 29, 2008
Administrators: Mike Morley, andy patterson
Elevation: 4,000 feet
Views: 308 page views

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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Roadside Crag, on Hwy-33 above Ojai. The...


Description 

Long, sandstone cliff-band that starts immediately above Hwy-33 and runs a few hundred yards north west. The cliff is 60-100 feet tall and consists of areas of bullet-proof sandstone (and other areas of choss).

There is clear evidence of recent and past climbing attempts; although, nothing is currently known about actual routes. PLEASE POST INFORMATION HERE.


Getting There 

Roadside Crag is located on the right-hand side of the road, when heading north and approximately 1 mile beyond the obvious turnout for the Fortress. The crag can also be found by driving to the Potrero Creek trailhead and then continuing up the Highway for approximately 1/2 mile. There is a small turnout located immediately below the cliff.



Add Photo Photos of Derrydale Cliff
Area "A"<br />This part of the cliff is approximately 50 feet tall and contains very hard sandstone within an obvious black streak.  The top of the cliff is equipped with what appear to be shiny, new Fixe Supershuts.

BETA PHOTO: Area "A"
This part of the cliff is approximately 5...


Area "B"<br />This part of the cliff is home to a line that is approximately 100 feet tall.  The line climbs a steep face past one 80s-era bolt and a series of pockets to a horizontal break.  From the break, there is a heavily-featured face that climbs up and eventually left below a small arch.

BETA PHOTO: Area "B"
This part of the cliff is home to a line ...


Matthew Fienup climbing at Derrydale Cliff, October 17, 2008.

Matthew Fienup climbing at Derrydale Cliff, Octobe...

Saw this beautiful creature while exploring new routes at Derrydale Cliff with Romain, in October.

Saw this beautiful creature while exploring new ro...


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 29, 2008

This beautiful cliff-band looms large over Hwy-33 and absolutely screams to be climbed. Clearly, there has been activity going back at least 20 years.

If you have any information about what routes were established, about who did these first ascents and when, please post this information here.

By steve edwards
Jul 30, 2008

Stuart Ruckman bolted a line, or two, but never climbed them. These are a way up from the road. They are rumored to be hard, and Stuart could climb a little bit.

Next to the road there is a bolt or two. I could never find out any info on this and never felt it was worth too much attention. Pretty, yes, but also pretty thin on suspect rock. But if I had lived a little closer it would have been worth a bit more effort...

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008

Local Geology: "Derrydale Phase" of Matilija Sandstone

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 13, 2008

Two more hard routes have been added to the left of "Exilis." Both FAs were by Matt Greco. The routes are 5.11 (left-hand route) and 5.12. They are both located in Area A