BETA PHOTO: I give Half Ascent a 5.5/5.6R rating. If the 2 exi...
Description
In my opinion, Half Ascent is the best route on the left side of the cable platform. It's rating is somewhere around 5.5/5.6 and it's currently a bit runout. There are 2 existing bolts (circa 1970) but one of the hangers is missing. If the bolts were replaced, I'd give it a 5.6 PG Rating. Begin directly below the tree and the corner of the big overhang. Look for the clean rock and the rusty, old 1/4" bolt (w/Leeper Hanger). Head straight up toward the sharp(!), yucca thing, then work your way left till you get to the belay tree. Rap here (off 2 ropes) or work your way up and left.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA May 28, 2008
There is a variation of Half Ascent that is quite well protected. It climbs intermittent cracks to the left of the aging bolt mentioned in the route description. In addition to reasonable pro, this variation has much cleaner rock than the variation that passes the aging bolt. It also feels closer to 5.5. For a topo, click here
Could this be the original line? Could the two additional bolts mentioned in the route description be "McTavish" (5.6), climbed by Yvon Chouinard &Bob McTavish in the 70s?
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA May 28, 2008
Half Ascent is 120 feet tall (to the rappel tree) and requires 2 ropes to descend.
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
RSS Feed
