By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Dec 1, 2006
As one might expect, Free to Choose will take some time and traffic to clean up perfectly...but it will. This is some of the hardest and best Central Coast sandstone I've climbed on. Until then, there is still lichen and a little loose rock.
By Eileen From: Ventura, California Apr 20, 2007 rating: 5.8
I've lead the first pitch of this twice now (2nd outing we just did the first pitch to get to the other climbs). It's gotten a little bit cleaner between times so it should just continue to improve and I think it will end up being a nice beginner lead climb.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 29, 2007
I climbed this route today for the n-th time. It is really cleaning up nicely. I must say though, the second pitch feels like it is getting harder. The moves through the fourth and fifth bolts felt like 5.9 to me.
I felt like the 2nd pitch was a little above 5.8 as well. Classic arete, climbs smooth, but the 5.8 is misleading.
By Jeff Mahoney From: Santa Barbara, CA Dec 3, 2007
Yes, cleaning up nicely. Fun and balancey. I'd say 5.8+ because the holds are there, it's just a weight shift issue through that second pitch crux. (Are you sure you can't do this route with a 50m rope? Seems a lot shorter.)
By Romain Wacziarg From: Los Angeles CA Dec 20, 2007 rating: 5.9
Jeff - you might be able to rap down P2 with a 50 meter rope - I have not tried, but there was quite a bit of rope left with a 60 meter. However, to rap down P1 a 60 meter rope will just barely get you down to terra firma.
By Romain Wacziarg From: Los Angeles CA Sep 29, 2008 rating: 5.9
With a broken hold midway up the second pitch, this may now be a 5.9 climb.
By Ryan Kosh From: Sacramento, CA Dec 1, 2008 rating: 5.9
Climbed this last weekend. Be mindful of rockfall as this route is still a bit loose. Lead both pitches and agree on a 5.9 rating for the second pitch.
Great rock that dried out from the recent rain quicker than the wall at Potrero.
Climbed this on 4/14/2008, now that part of the second pitch has broken off clipping the 4th bolt is very barndoor'ish lack of a good left foot makes this clip very intense, blowing this clip would result in a pretty serous fall. add 1/2 a grade just for clipping this bolt. 9+
I lead the first pitch and thought it was contrived. I didn't like being 50' off the ground on the right side, but 3' off the ground on the left side, but I was keeping an open mind. Then my nephew lead the 2nd pitch. 5.9 for sure. Was starting to like it but then ran into the last 30' of the route. The whole right side of the route is ready to fall off on the top part. It shuddered, shook, vibrated, made that hollow sound, and then the belay was set on top of a pile of loose blocks. I like adventure climbing, so I can accept it, but I'm hoping there are better routes at this crag.
Climbed this route on sunday 8/16/09. Very fun climb. Must have seen some traffic as it has cleaned up very nicely, with little loose rock and lichen. The second pitch is great! More difficult (5.9?) than the first pitch. There is a scary big block on the right at the top of the second pitch. It is literally hanging off the face of the arete. Within the next few years, or maybe just one heavy rain season, it will surely topple down the mountain. I just don't want to be at the base when that 2-ton bomb comes crashing down.
Note - no rap rings on bolted anchors on top of second pitch. Bring a small sling to reduce chances of damaging your rope.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 17, 2009
The top of this route is equipped with Metolius Rap Hangers--thick, oversized hangers that are designed to have the rope fed directly through the hanger for rappels.