The Fortress

There is evidence of past and recent activity in the Fortress.

On a striking arete behind "Free to Choose" there is a 80s-era bolt with a white bail-sling about 2/3 of the way up. On the smallest, right-most triangle, there is a two-bolt top anchor (hardware store variety expansion bolts). On one of the center-most formations, a line of bolts ends 1/3 up with a bail-ring (again these are hardware store bolts).

Nothing else is known about these attempts. Please post relevant information here.

"On one of the center-most formations, a line of bolts ends 1/3 up with a bail-ring (again these are hardware store bolts)."

I put those three bolts in about 10 years ago on lead with a hand drill. The black flies were so bad I never wanted to go back and finish. The bolts are actually Fixe 3/8 x 3.5 stainless steel wedge bolts...I wish I could have bought them at the "hardware store", it would have saved me some money. Anyway, it's an open project for anyone who likes flies! The route will probably go at 5.9...

Erik, thanks for the first-hand information! Do you know anything about other climbing attempts in the Fortress?

Also, did you place any bolts on the right-most formation (a small triangle-shaped one in the front). There are 2 bolts there that look like the ones that you placed. Unfortunately, these all look just like an externally-threaded sleeve bolt (hardware store junk) that I pulled from the Black Wall.

Thanks again.
Matthew

Hi Matthew,

I don't know anything about the two bolts on the small triangle in front. I do remember seeing evidence of other activity on the day I spent up there hand drilling (I hope I never get that urge again…).

At that time, the arete to the right of the climb I started had been climbed ( I think this is the same arête your route "Permanent Income Hypothesis" is on?). There was an old piton hammered in on the left of the arête about ½ to ¾ of the way up with a small piece of webbing hanging on it (probably a bail sling). The slings and bolt on top were not there at that time, but I saw them a couple of years later from the 33 and hiked up around on the right to check them out. The slings were fading, and looked as if they had been there at least a year at that time.

I also remember soloing up an existing bolt line on the left hand side of the Fortress (up and right of PJ Wall I think). It seemed to be around 5.4??, and ended after 30-40 feet.

I’m looking foreword to getting on Permanent Income Hypothesis next time I’m up that way. It looks like an awesome climb!!!

Thanks,

Erik

Great stuff. Exactly what climbing is about for me, getting up high and looking around.

My wife and I met Matthew Fienup the first time we came to the fortress. Great routes set by great people!

We climbed a few of the prominent medium-grade routes and loved them! Access is quick and obvious, but better left to the sure footed hiker, especially the on-foot approach to routes like "Permanent Income Hypothesis."

We climbed here in late July, which was pretty warm on the ground, but most of these routes get good shade in the early afternoon.

After dozens of days climbing in the Fortress, I've learned to carry a few pieces of gear--my "Fortress rack" includes enough quickdraws to climb my desired routes plus the following gear: #0-#3 TCU, #1 & #2 Omega Pacific Link Cam.

The gear has proved useful for really sewing up some of the routes, including Capitalism & Freedom, Classically Liberal, Consumption Dysfunction, Rational Expectations, and Magali's Arete. This rack is also sufficient to lead Helicopter Effect and Rose.

what's with the Bolting issues Matt?

Ryan,

The following story: http://www.onsight.com.au/news-blog/articles/36/nicks-accide>>>>> may explain why Matthew is concerned with inadequate bolts in sandstone (or in any kind of stone for that matter). The bolts we placed on all our routes at the Fortress are 1/2 inch sleeve bolts, considerably safer than the hardware store kind he bemoans - these can pull out under less than body-weight in soft sandstone (incidentally the sandstone at the Fortress is not very soft - among some of the hardest sandstone in the Central Coast - with some variations depending on location - the hardest kind seems the one that is reddish on the exterior).

Romain

Historical background care of the late Reese Martin: "A half mile beyond the Sespe Wall is a group of rock slabs on the south side of the road. The eighty-foot-high blank wall at the far left is Potero John Wall. To the right and uphill a bit is a group of large triangular slabs, collectively known as The Fortress. There was some climbing done on the Fortress in the late 1960's and early 1980's. These slabs are essentially undeveloped. The Fortress offers excellent potential for new moderate pitches."

have been to the area for years considering I grew up in Ventura. have'nt climbed the Fortress yet.
heard that somebody was mess'n with the Potrero wall?

Ryan, if you mean Potrero John Wall, all I know is that the two topropes on the far left have been retrofit with lead bolts. This was done back in '99. More info here.