Central Coast

Tidal Pool-Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Sandwiched between major urban centers Los Angeles to the south and the San Francisco Bay to the north, the quaint Central Coast of California spans roughly from Ventura to Monterey. While known primarily for surfing, celebrities, wine-tasting, and exorbitant real estate, there is actually surprisingly good climbing to be found. The majority of rock around Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Ojai is medium-grade sandstone (i.e., a little friable), but there's also blue schist (Green Dome), andesite (SLO), and conglomerate (Silly Rock, Wheeler Gorge) out there. The climbing is by no means world class, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in aesthetics. As a friend of mine would say, "maybe not 4-star climbing, but makes for a 4-star day!"

Areas like the Sespe Gorge had established routes as early as the late 50s and 60s. Over the years, many well-known climbers have graced these small cliffsides, including the likes of Yvon Chouinard (Yosemite legend and founder/owner of Patagonia), Reese Martin, brothers Tim and Tobin Sorenson, Jonny Woodward (Black Diamond), Jim Donini and even Henry Barber!

Sadly, Reese was killed in a paragliding accident in July 2004. Here is a link to some of his favorites in the area.

Getting There 

Hwy 101 connects Ventura to San Luis Obispo. 99% of the routes described here lie either off the 101, 154 (San Marcos Pass), 33 (Ojai), or 166 (east of Santa Maria). Refer to specific area for details and directions.

Featured Route For Central Coast

Ending Crack 5.7 PG13  CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai

P1: Follow the striking crack straight up the face to a 2-bolt belay.P2: Continue up the crack until it peters out, then follow face holds up and right to a shallow face crack to newish 3-bolt anchors.Walk off to wide gully on the left or rap off anchors via two-rope rappel....[more]

Add Photo Photos of Central Coast

Young Elephant Seal. Photo by Blitzo.	Montana de Oro Beach, near Morro Bay. Photo by Bli...	California Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.
Starfish. Photo by Blitzo.	California Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.	California gulls-the State Bird of Utah. Photo by ...