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DescriptionLocated half way between major urban centers Los Angeles to the south and the San Francisco Bay to the north, the quaint Central Coast of California spans roughly from Ventura to Monterey. While known primarily for surfing, celebrities, exorbitant real estate prices, and wine-tasting (the movie "Sideways" was filmed locally), there is actually surprisingly good climbing to be found. The majority of rock around Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Ojai is medium-grade sandstone (i.e., a little friable), but there's also blue schist (Green Dome), andesite (SLO), and conglomerate (Silly Rock, Wheeler Gorge) out there. The climbing is by no means world class, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in aesthetics. As a friend of mine would say, "maybe not 4-star climbing, but makes for a 4-star day!" Guidebooks
Getting ThereHwy 101 connects Ventura to San Luis Obispo. 99% of the routes described here lie either off the 101, 154 (San Marcos Pass), 33 (Ojai), or 166 (east of Santa Maria). Refer to specific area for details and directions. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Coast:
Tree Root 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Regular Route 5.5 R Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Big Sur : Slate's Spire
60 Seconds Over Soledad 5.6 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
Shadow 5.7 R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock
Ending Crack 5.7 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
P-Crack 5.8 Trad, 80 feet Bishop Peak : P-Wall
Free to Choose 5.8+ Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet The Fortress : Right Side Gully
Permanent Income Hypothesis 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 180 feet The Fortress : Right Side Gully
The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet East Camino Cielo : Crag Full of Dynamite
Thin Man 5.9 R Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock
Impacted Stool Crack 5.9 Trad, 50 feet Bishop Peak : P-Wall
Many Happy Returns 5.9+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Santa Barbara : San Ysidro
Great Race 5.10a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Santa Barbara : San Ysidro
Lama 5.10b Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
Camel 5.10b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
Gold Rush/High Noon 5.10b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Bishop Peak : Wild, Wild Western Pinnacle...
T-Crack 5.10 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock
Western Airlines 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
The Nose 5.11 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock
Rat Race 5.11+ R Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From Northern California
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Featured Route For Central Coast
 If you're like me, attempting a route that features awkward, flaring 5.11 moves protected by thin, tricky gear is not really at the top of your list of things to do. But the Old Stone Face is such a beautiful formation in a truly amazing setting. So what to do? Well, I tried aiding this route a few weeks ago and found it to be an excellent adventure. The first twenty feet where the 5.11 moves are found can be aided cleanly on aliens and small...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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