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DescriptionSandwiched between major urban centers Los Angeles to the south and the San Francisco Bay to the north, the quaint Central Coast of California spans roughly from Ventura to Monterey. While known primarily for surfing, celebrities, wine-tasting, and exorbitant real estate, there is actually surprisingly good climbing to be found. The majority of rock around Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Ojai is medium-grade sandstone (i.e., a little friable), but there's also blue schist (Green Dome), andesite (SLO), and conglomerate (Silly Rock, Wheeler Gorge) out there. The climbing is by no means world class, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in aesthetics. As a friend of mine would say, "maybe not 4-star climbing, but makes for a 4-star day!" Getting ThereHwy 101 connects Ventura to San Luis Obispo. 99% of the routes described here lie either off the 101, 154 (San Marcos Pass), 33 (Ojai), or 166 (east of Santa Maria). Refer to specific area for details and directions.
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Featured Route For Central Coast
Ending Crack 5.7 PG13 CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai
P1: Follow the striking crack straight up the face to a 2-bolt belay.P2: Continue up the crack until it peters out, then follow face holds up and right to a shallow face crack to newish 3-bolt anchors.Walk off to wide gully on the left or rap off anchors via two-rope rappel....[more]
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