Central Coast

Ken Klis on Edgeucation, Bishop Peak summit. photo...

Description 

Located half way between major urban centers Los Angeles to the south and the San Francisco Bay to the north, the quaint Central Coast of California spans roughly from Ventura to Monterey. While known primarily for surfing, celebrities, exorbitant real estate prices, and wine-tasting (the movie "Sideways" was filmed locally), there is actually surprisingly good climbing to be found. The majority of rock around Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Ojai is medium-grade sandstone (i.e., a little friable), but there's also blue schist (Green Dome), andesite (SLO), and conglomerate (Silly Rock, Wheeler Gorge) out there. The climbing is by no means world class, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in aesthetics. As a friend of mine would say, "maybe not 4-star climbing, but makes for a 4-star day!"

Areas like the Sespe Gorge had established routes as early as the late 50s and 60s. Over the years, many well-known climbers have graced these small cliffsides, including the likes of Yvon Chouinard (Yosemite legend and founder/owner of Patagonia), brothers Tim and Tobin Sorenson, Jonny Woodward (Black Diamond), Jim Donini and even Henry Barber!

Around Santa Barbara and Ventura, pioneers of the '80s and '90s included Kevin Brown, Kevin Steele, Steve Tucker, Menzo Baird, and Steve Edwards (guidebook author of "Rock Climbing Santa Barbara & Ventura"), who established many of the newer sport routes around Santa Barbara and Hwy 166/Silly Rock.

In San Luis Obispo county, pioneers include Rusty Garing, Dwight Kroll, Pete Gulyash, Tobin Sorenson, Ed Sampson, Ken Klis, Tom Slater (guidebook author of "California Central Coast Climbs"), and Brandon Thau. Slater, Thau, and Klis are responsible for developing such crags as Cerro Romauldo, Cabrillo Peak and Big Rocks.

Former Access Fund director Reese Martin lived in the area for a time. Sadly, he was killed in a paragliding accident in July 2004 at the age of 49. Here is a link to some of his favorites along California's beautiful Central Coast.

Getting There 

Hwy 101 connects Ventura to San Luis Obispo. 99% of the routes described here lie either off the 101, 154 (San Marcos Pass), 33 (Ojai), or 166 (east of Santa Maria). Refer to specific area for details and directions.

This map will help get you oriented.

The Classics

Featured Route For Central Coast

Makunaima 5.11c  CA : Central Coast : ... : Cold Springs Dome

Start on steep jugs, gain a wide crack, climb past a potentially loose horn, then fire through a series of strenuous finger-locks to a small roof. Pull the roof into more burly finger-locks, then traverse off to the left to exit. If you feel bold, go straight up to finish on a difficult and run-out boulder problem which pushes the grade up to a 5.11d. Makunaima is rarely led and often top-roped. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Central Coast Slideshow

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Tidal Pool-Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.	Young Elephant Seal. Photo by Blitzo.	Montana de Oro Beach, near Morro Bay. Photo by Bli...
California Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.	Starfish. Photo by Blitzo.	California Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.
California gulls-the State Bird of Utah. Photo by ...	A little cliff along the beautiful highway 152. T...	Beautiful scenery just a mile east of Gilroy.
A Western Gull stands guard over a Central Coast c...	Over-wintering Monarch butterfly, Central Coast of...	Of all of the Central Coast's amazing native anima...
You can't beat the winter sunsets, driving home fr...	The Central Coast offers outstanding rest-day oppo...	Burned leaves from a coast live oak--photographed ...
The city of Ventura was once home to several nice ...