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Wondertwins T 

California Weakender 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger, Jeff Wenger, 4/07
Page Views: 2,791
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jesse B. sending

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome, varied climbing. Sequency moves off the ground yield to a spectacular finger and hand crack that will take you to the ledge. From here, work up a unique wide crack to an exciting move out a roof to the chains. This would make for a great first Trout Creek 5.11-.

Location 

Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. California Weakender climbs the crack to the stembox left of the block.

Protection 

Doubles of BD's O C3 to #2 C4 with an extra #3 C4. Most people place in a smaller crack in the back of the wide crack to avoid hauling up big cams. I was wishing I had slings to extend some of these placements.


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Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender.  To ac...
Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender. To ac...

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By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2013

Relatively hard for the 11- grade compared to say U4. Cool line and climbs more like a granite route. A Stopper fits really well for first move off the pillar... Some may want an extra #1 Camalot for last move.
By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

This is a fantastic climb that has something for everyone. I even got to use my signature beached whale technique--twice. I brought a #6 mastercam (≈#1 Camalot) to protect the roof move, but found myself wishing I had instead saved my Camalot .75.
By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Dec 11, 2014

You can protect the top wide bit below the roof with a .75 off the rest and then a #3 with a sling which can be walked up until you can get a piece in the roof. Might need to have longish arms though.