|The Main Wall
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Awesome, varied climbing. Sequency moves off the ground yield to a spectacular finger and hand crack to a ledge. From the ledge, work up a unique wide crack to an exciting move out a roof to the chains. This would make for a great first Trout Creek 5.11-.
Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. California Weakender climbs the crack to the stembox left of the block.
Doubles of BD's O C3 to #2 C4 with an extra #3 C4. Most people place in a smaller crack in the back of the wide crack to avoid hauling up big cams. I was wishing I had slings to extend some of these placements.
Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender. To ac...
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Jun 2, 2013
Relatively hard for the 11- grade compared to say U4. Cool line and climbs more like a granite route. A Stopper fits really well for first move off the pillar... Some may want an extra #1 Camalot for last move.
|By Jack Lazar|
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014
This is a fantastic climb that has something for everyone. I even got to use my signature beached whale technique--twice. I brought a #6 mastercam (≈#1 Camalot) to protect the roof move, but found myself wishing I had instead saved my Camalot .75.