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U3 T,TR 
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Wondertwins T 

California Weakender 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger, Jeff Wenger, 4/07
Page Views: 2,673
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Nov 8, 2009

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Jesse B. sending

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awesome, varied climbing. Sequency moves off the ground yield to a spectacular finger and hand crack to a ledge. From the ledge, work up a unique wide crack to an exciting move out a roof to the chains. This would make for a great first Trout Creek 5.11-.

Location 

Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. California Weakender climbs the crack to the stembox left of the block.

Protection 

Doubles of BD's O C3 to #2 C4 with an extra #3 C4. Most people place in a smaller crack in the back of the wide crack to avoid hauling up big cams. I was wishing I had slings to extend some of these placements.


Photos of California Weakender Slideshow Add Photo
Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender.  To access the twin cracks of Question Air Box, climb on top of the column to the right of Thad.
Thad Arnold redpoints California Weakender. To ac...

Comments on California Weakender Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2013

Relatively hard for the 11- grade compared to say U4. Cool line and climbs more like a granite route. A Stopper fits really well for first move off the pillar... Some may want an extra #1 Camalot for last move.
By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

This is a fantastic climb that has something for everyone. I even got to use my signature beached whale technique--twice. I brought a #6 mastercam (≈#1 Camalot) to protect the roof move, but found myself wishing I had instead saved my Camalot .75.