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California Dreaming 
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California Dreaming 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Frank Sanders
Page Views: 1,573
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Sep 18, 2005
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Do the amazing first pitch of One Way Sunset to get warmed up. From the bolted anchor traverse up and left into the beautiful right facing dihedral. After about 10 feet you can clip the first of six bolts. The next 60 feet is unrelenting stemming with no real hand holds or good rests. The bolts are very well placed and the falls would not be too bad. After the sixth bolt you can get a good rest out to the right on a nice little ledge. The upper part of the pitch is easier and protects with gear. Rappel from bolts back to the One Way Sunset anchor. We made it easy with a single 70m rope.


6 bolts protect the sustained crux section. You will also need RPs, nuts, and cams for the upper section. Mostly small cams up to a #1 Camalot should do.

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By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jul 2, 2006

This climb is also known as "Kernal Sandfly" and is listed under that name in the Dingus McGee poor persons guides.