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California Dreamin'  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Achey, 2005
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 5, 2009

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Climbing California Dreamin'.
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Description 

A fun and enjoyable climb on good rock. Climb through the "hole" at the bottom and onto the face above. Climb the clean cut dihedral and finish on the moderate face above.


Location 

Hike about 20 yards left along the cliff from where the trail meet the crag. There's a spot at the base of the cliff where you make an exposed traverse on rock. Just after this, look for the obvious right-facing dihedral and a "hole" feature at the bottom. This is California Dreamin'.


Protection 

6 bolts and 3 pins.

Addendum: this is now fully bolted with stainless hardware from the ASCA and the pins are gone.



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By D-Storm
Jun 1, 2010

This is my favorite of the three 5.9s at this cliff. The biggest drawback to the climb is that the belay area sucks and is in the middle of the trail. It's no big deal if no one else is trying to get around, which is usually the case, but is a total bummer when another after-work group with dogs comes along.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We thought this route was absolutely awful. It starts with non-descript climbing, which is well protected by 3 bolts. The book said the dihedral above (clean cut????, ugghh) had pins (i.e. plural). The dihedral had 1 pin in a muddy crack, about a foot above the bolt, basically useless. From there, it was a good run on muddy, slimy, non-positive holds to get to the next bolt. Falling here would be pretty bad. Then, easy climbing to the anchor. You might be able to get small gear in the crack, but it is kind of one of those irregular limestone cracks. One bolt in this area would be a big improvement.

I figured the FA had to be Alvino Pon but was shocked and saddened to see it was Jeff Achey. Pounding pins into a crack on limestone sport route in 2005? Jeff, you're killing me. Don't be smudging your brilliant, golden career with these piss-ant, brown smudges!

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 13, 2011

If the pins are gone, then maybe we should go replace them with some bolts, that won't go missing. We can talk to Jeff beforehand. Sorry you had such a miserable experience, Slim.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ironically enough, I actually kind of enjoyed it. Just figured I'd give Jeff a hard time. Probably found 400 lbs of old iron in his basement and didn't know what to do with it. :)

By J Achey
Jul 25, 2011

Well, I climbed this route again over the weekend, after a long absence, and, yes, another pin has fallen out (I'd already replaced one with a bolt, higher in the dihedral, a few years ago). The route, as is, is pretty dangerous, with a big runout above another pin, which is dubious. Mike said he wanted to replace the pins - great, Mike, the sooner the better.

So ... sorry, local climbers, about the old-school equipping. It has taken me a while to get comfortable bolting cracks or gear placements, even at sport areas, but I think I'm finally modern enough to handle it.

And Slim, thanks for your kind words, as well as the deserved jabs.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2011

Sorry I haven't gotten to this sooner. I've been really busy with other projects, work and stuff, like my wife having a baby today!!!

No worries about old school equipping, Jeff. I really appreciate all of the development you've done in the canyon, and my wife appreciates it now so I can easily and quickly climb close to home! :)

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 27, 2011

This is now fully bolted with stainless hardware from the ASCA and the pins are gone. Climb away!

You were right Jeff, that was a pretty good runout without the pins!

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Nov 13, 2011

Glad I wasn't the only one that thought that ^.... My friend tried to lead it and backed down before the pin, I went up with a set of hybrid Aliens and wished I had my RPs and sliding nuts. Managed to sneak in a hybrid about 3 feet below the bolt which helped a little, but it sure was a spicy lead either way! Surely an onsight that actually mattered. Thanks for the upgrade, Mike and the ASCA.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 5, 2013

Thanks for all of your work, guys! I did this one last summer and is definitely a fun one!