Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Feudal Wall (Right Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arizona Crack T 
Burning Man T 
California Crack T 
Castles Burning T 
Dry Lake T 
Dum Roodle T 
El Rey T 
Mikado, The T 
Minion T 
Noriega Does Panama S 
Panama Canal T 
Panther Crack T 
Pet or Meat T 
Pet Sounds T 
Princess T 
Return of General Noriega, The TR 
Socrates Sucks TR 
Whispering Chickens S 

California Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,674
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Olivia pointing out the California Crack


Just right of "Mikado", Move up, then left under a roof. Then straight up.


Pro to 2.5".

Photos of California Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading California Crack, with Morgan.  Photo by J...
Leading California Crack, with Morgan. Photo by J...
Rock Climbing Photo: "California Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "California Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: California Crack
California Crack

Comments on California Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 26, 2007

A very fun climb. This climb has a fun little roof about 15-20 feet off the floor.
By Tradoholic
Dec 22, 2012

Red C3 perfect for the crux.
By Richard Shore
Dec 29, 2012

Gets an "R" rating in the Miramontes guide, but I don't think it is warranted. You can pre-protect the start by scrambling up into the "cave" and threading a 4' sling through a nice hole under the roof. An amazing knee-bar (no hands rest) takes the bite out of the crux and allows for easy gear placement.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Feb 18, 2013

Going with just that first sling and placing next at the knee bar would be runout, if one has to rely on not falling through an unprotected stretch. Danger not so much from decking but from the possible big penji fall smacking leader rightward back against the side of the cave, as one local did a long while ago and broke his back (full recovery). Other interesting first pro also possible at mentioned spot, that would more readily allow placement on the go, without pre-placing.
By verticalbound
Apr 15, 2013

tons of fun moves, if youve got good foot work and wear pants i felt like there were so many places you could half hold and place a piece in the roof, tons of possibilities get creative. knee moves make it not to pumpy.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!