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The Mustang
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Caliente 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JSt,EFR,'01
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Dreamy Chris figuring out Caliente

Description 

Thin face climbing that goes on and on with the exception of one little ledge with thin holds that make getting on it then moving right on it a bit awkward.

Location 

Just left of Left Y Line. Starts up a section with some finger locks then continues straight up until you are under the right side of the roof.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Caliente Slideshow Add Photo
Large square scar immediately left of the start
Large square scar immediately left of the start

Comments on Caliente Add Comment
Show which comments
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 3, 2009

10 bolts plus the rings for the anchor. 2 routes right of the churt boulder. Cool route!
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Jan 31, 2010

Hey Eric ,
I wanted to say this is a beautiful line!! I do have a question though regaurding bolting. I know that sometimes bolts can have a tendancy to get old but since this is a new route I have to ask. Should one the anchor bolts be moving under weight?

You have seen me I'm a big guy but by far not the biggest. I noticed when I put pressure on the anchors however the right side bolt at the rap rings seemed to wiggle some AND I"m positive you know how to correctly bolt.
I'm just new to this and was wondering if its the rock quality up there at the top because of the limestone more prone to wear and tear?
By Jimbo
Feb 1, 2010

Derek ,

Was the bolt itself moving or was the hanger just loose.

Cranking down the nut would probably tighten the bolt up inside the hole again if the bolts loose.

We used the best pewter bolts money could but at the Mustang so they should hold body weight for a few more years.
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Dec 1, 2011

Hey Jim, sorry for the late reply. I think it was the bolt itself * potentially the best location for one just the rock at the top of the route is not as quality*

I'm sure the route is safe I just was trying to gauge bolt placements on a crag like this. I'm not a developer but enjoy learning how the art is made :)
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 1, 2011

If the nut is a little loose the bolt can move a little as the hole is slightly larger than the shaft itself. It shouldn't move much more than a 32th of an inch or so. Carry a wrench and snug the nut down a half a turn or so and I bet it stops moving.