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Cannibal Crag
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Caliban 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten; 1993
Page Views: 1,665
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Feb 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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BETA PHOTO: Caliban

Description 

This route climbs Cannibal Crag about 20 feet to the left of the left-leaning crack on the south-east side of the rock. Climb past three bolts to a cold shut anchor. The most obvious line takes you quite far right past the first bolt and then you have to swing back left to the second. Named for a moon of Uranus. A little spicy.


Protection 

Three bolts



Photos of Caliban Slideshow Add Photo
The wandery Caliban.  Thought it was pretty fun.
The wandery Caliban. Thought it was pretty fun.
Comments on Caliban Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2012
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Mar 18, 2006

Don't feel bad if have to back down on leading this one.It's sick!

It took three of us to lead it about a year and a half ago.
Sarah clipped the first bolt, I clipped the second and poor J.C. clipped the third (sorry J.C. for telling you there were two bolts in that runout section) It was funny to hear you cuss your way to the top though. Great job! It was on J.C.'s birthday too! Caliban, a birthday gift from Sarah and I.

By harmonydoc
Mar 27, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Led this last weekend. Very wandery, the climb traverses away from the bolt line a lot. I was expecting 4 bolts, I only found 3. Managed to get a green Camalot in a horizontal after bolt #3, but still ran it way out to the top. The terrain was moderate enough that I didn't feel too sketched, but I made the people watching from the ground nervous! Decent climb if you are OK with runouts and are comfortable at the grade, otherwise I wouldn't recommend it.

By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I was really not a big fan of this route. It wanders all over the place and the climbing, despite being only 5.8, is fairly precarious. There are only 3 bolts on the route, not 4 like Roxanna's book says. On the whole, just not enjoyable. There is a much better 5.8 on the other side of the boulder.

By gilbert.2003
From: Burke, VA
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

A fun climb; just don't plan on climbing straight up. Holds are good but you have to wander to get to the bolts and it is a runout to the anchors.

By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Aug 21, 2007

Like most here have said, it wanders from the start (out right and back left....then runout). One of the few minority runout climbs....with a possible visit to the hospital if you're not capable of sending the grade. Better 5.8/5.9's around Red Rocks.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Not a recommended climb for a 5.8 leader but an engaging outing worth doing if you are in the area. You could take small cams for above the bolts but if you can climb the bolted part you ain't gonna fall from the boltless part.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 15, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

a .5 or .75 camalot would partially protect the upper run-out...but to be honest, this one really isnt worth doing anyway- not a very good climb by any standard.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

On 5/19/10, the LVCLC and the ASCA replaced the anchor bolts and the last pro bolt on this route and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks. All new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece.

By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Oct 6, 2010

I have to agree with most everyone else. This route is not worth doing. There are much better routes to do without all the frustration.

By Ben Sherwin
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Wife, friend, and I did this route this weekend on TR. We Trad lead the 5.4 Cannibal Crack and dropped top rope. On top rope it was a very fun climb IMHO. Friend's book called it Trad due to it's distance from that bolt line, but I didn't see anything great for pro except where others have mentioned that run-out section.

By Jiana ten Brinke
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This route is wandering and run out. The holds are crimpy and hard to find at times. The last bolt (#3) is roughly two thirds of the way up the climb and after this the upper run out section is easy slab climbing, but a fall here would be serious or deadly (hence the rating of R/X). I would avoid leading this climb if you are a beginner.

By Erik Campos
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Not many protection is provided. Me and my son were all over these one. Watch out for iguanas on this route, almost grab one on one of the holds after the first bolt.

By Ming
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I did this back in 2007 and it was the most gut wrench thing I have ever done at that point. Solid R for sure even thought it's easy 5th class once you get past the steep part that lasts only about 10 or so feet past the second bolt (thought ground fall is very likely at that point - and you will deck past that point). I did this when I was barely a 5.9 - 5.10a lead in the gym so it was one of my proudest leads.