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 ADVANCED
Lower Peninsula Face
Select Route:
Caleb's Day Out 
Hidden Slab 

Caleb's Day Out 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 35'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Conor Raney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Conor Raney on Oct 19, 2009

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Description 

No definite crux really. An easy going crack climb.

Location 

Crack starts on the far right side of the face. Easy to find.

Protection 

Pads


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By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 21, 2009

I'm confused. a 5.9+ climb is now V2? Or is there a 5.9+ climb leading to a V2 boulder problem?
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 22, 2009

Starting I think from Vedauwoo, pure crack climbs that are boulder problems are given YDS grades alongside v-grades, presumably with the understanding that if this was the crux of a route, that's what the route would go at, but there's rarely such a yawning abyss between the accepted V/YDS equivalency and the grade. Although, it is 5.9+
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 24, 2009

So wouldn't it be V0- then?
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 26, 2009

I bolded the plus-sign in my previous comment. I do find it a bit weird that its 5.9+ V2. Maybe we're to interpret 5.9+ to mean 5.9+n where n is the difference between the real grade and the sandbag grade.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 26, 2009

so n is the difference between the real grade and the sandbag grade... a difference of n=V2. So the sandbag grade is 5.9+ and this* says V2 is 5.11d, so 5.9++5.11d=5.12b range for the real grade? I'm not sure how this works...

spadout.com/wiki/index.php/Cli...
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 27, 2009

No, if V2 is called 5.11d (which is news to me, but that's why I hate the V-grades), then n is approximately 2.

If it was 5.9+ V7, then n is approximately 4. Get it? The idea is that we print both grades so that the average crack climber (who may or may not boulder that much) can figure out how difficult a crack line is without having to refer to a reference sheet. Mind you, it only works when both grades are sandbagged equivalently, rather than differently as in this case.
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 21, 2009

the route is actually 5.9+, I gave the V2 rating because it's 35 feet with an easy but sketchy crux towards the top. So, I just figured that the mental aspect would contribute towards the grade...idk, but is that ok if I do that? or is in looked down on?
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Feb 8, 2010

so maybe i should give it an "E" grade lol.