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The Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bannana Peel T 
Boomstick Crack T 
Bottom Line, The T 
Calculus Crack T 
Calculus Direct T 
Crack Slabbeth T 
Dances with Pigs S 
Dessert Dike T,S 
Diamondback T 
Diedre T 
Dream Symphony T 
Edge of Anxiety T 
Granville Street T 
Great Arch, The S 
Karen's Math T 
Memorial Crack T 
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 
Over The Rainbow T,S 
Rambles T 
Rock On T 
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 
Sickle T 
Slab Alley T,S 
Snake T 
South Arete T 
Sparrow T 
St. Vitus' Dance T 
Start From Scratch T 
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 
Unfinished Symphony T,S 
Vector T 
White Lightning T 
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Calculus Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966
Season: summer
Page Views: 5,380
Submitted By: sibylle on Jul 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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Look at that awesome splitter


From Baseline Ledge, head left to a bolted belay beneath cracks.
Pitch 1. Climb up crack and step left to belay.
P. 2. follow the crack and groove.
3. climb up and right on easy terrain.


This climb starts on Baseline Ledge on the north Buttress of the Apron.


Gear belays, nuts and cams, runners for the climbing to Baseline Ledge.

Photos of Calculus Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Tristan folowing pitch 1 of Calculus Crack.
Tristan folowing pitch 1 of Calculus Crack.
Tristan following pitch 2 of Calculus Crack
Tristan following pitch 2 of Calculus Crack
Pitch 2 of Calculus Crack
Pitch 2 of Calculus Crack
Calculus Crack.  Patty Black in the thick of it.  ...
Calculus Crack. Patty Black in the thick of it. ...

Comments on Calculus Crack Add Comment
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By Dan Petty
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Very well protected.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really fun climbing. Don't know where the PG13 rating could possibly be warranted. Even the upper, 5.0 slab had a handcrack option.

I pitched this out as follows (after getting to Baseline Ledge, which is one or two pitches of 5.7 scramble but fun).

P1: Romped up the parallel cracks (5.6), then step left to a finger-sized crack for gear belay.

P2: Climbed the finger crack to some other harder moves as the crack slowly widens to thin-hands. (5.8, then easier again.) Angle kicks back and there's a great place for a thin-hand to hand gear belay on a low-angle ramp on a left-facing corner. Good place to stay in the shade.

P3: Easy climbing again, rings to hands to a bolted belay off right. (5.7, but mostly easy.)

P4: 5.0 walk with a fun hand crack to the trees.

Tried to link the last two pitches with a 70m but came up short and downclimbed the crack. Kevin McClane pitched this out in 3 pitches in his guide, is it possible to go straight from the finger-crack to the bolted anchor with or without a 70m?
Aug 12, 2012

From P 3 belay (little ledge) through the awesome fingers/hands long moderate section you can stretch a 60m to a nice comfy ledge, but save a #1 & 2 C4 for the belay.

Got lost on 2nd jungleering pitch but just keept going up and to the left.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 16, 2012

Well protected, not PG13. If you notice bad wind in the parking lot you will be in for an adventure on this route. After climbing a very windy 190 feet of 5.6 wide crack you step left into an amazing finger crack that is truly on the edge of the apron. The wind RIPS through this section of the climb pulling helmets off, chalk bags sideways, the rope, and of course you. That being said, it's quite the windy adventure if you get it on a day like that!
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Mega classic for the grade. Solid jams the whole way and fun fun fun.
By Elizabeth Leddy
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm also -1 on saying this is PG13. very well protected.

This route was great for a post rain day. Minus the first 2 pitches, the rest dry quickly. The second pitch was very wet the day after a rain and there was definitely some cussing happening but it was fine. Just wear long pants to wipe your feet off on. You know you are at the start of the route because you are literally climbing the first pitch through trees and dirt. There is a fixed line to the right.

You can string this together with Elaines crack (5.10a) and then memorial crack (5.9) for 8 pitches of wooohoo! that tops out at the top of the buttress. 5 rappels (not 4 like the book says) to get off or hike off. The 2nd rappel is a rope stretcher so don't forget to tie knots. The rappels go near the base of the climb so you can leave your pack.
By Matthew Bernstein
Jan 3, 2015

I've always taken the St. Vitus Direct pitch as a fun 2nd pitch to get to Baseline ledge. To find it, go right through the woods instead of up after pitch 1. There you will see the obvious right facing corner that will take you up to baseline ledge. The guidebook describes it as a 5.10 corner. I've found it to be closer to 5.9. A nice finger crack in a right facing corner to a mantle (on the left side of the corner) up onto a ledge. After that it's easy climbing to a tree belay. From here go up and then left through the trees to the bolted anchor start of Calculus crack proper (or P3 of Calculus according to the guidebook). The St. Vitus direct pitch is a fun lead (i'd give it three stars), but can seep for a day or two after rain.
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