Cakewalk 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus |
| Season: | whatever you can take |
| Submitted By: | Spiro on Aug 25, 2008 |
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About 3/4 up the first pitch.
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start on some easy ground and climb a section of wide crack. Trend left, with some face moves, towards a shallow ledge on top of a large block. From there, trend back right towards a vertical crack and right-facing corner. More fun moves following the corner, and up and leftward to the chains. Very fun climb for the 5.7 leader. Don't be fooled by the name!
There are two more easy pitches to the top; beware that they are not often climbed, and any slings on trees are likely to be very questionable.
Location It is left of Never Never Land and starts on a ledge about 10 feet up. I climbed the face to get to the ledge. Look for the large right-facing flakes and corner high up.
Protection Standard rack. One 60m comes just short of reaching the ground (the route used to start from the tree that used to be on the ledge) - be careful.
By JSH
Administrator
Jun 4, 2010
| The face climbing in the first third of the route can stay seepy late into the spring, and after a rain. It's fairly obvious from the ground. |
By Olivier
Sep 26, 2010
| Did not find the pin, a bit run out in the middle but great variety climb, quite even for the grade. |
By Goran Lynch
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 27, 2010
| I led Cakewalk sometime earlier this summer and chuckled at the cool piton (it was driven vertically downward behind a flake), but as of 9/26/10 the pin is no longer there. It didn't seem to be particularly trustworthy and there is decent gear around.
Cakewalk is my favorite .7 at the gunks (at least, that I've done): sustained, varied, and interesting throughout! |
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 23, 2011
| It's an okay climb if you're in the area. Seems to stay wet long after surrounding climbs have dried. Runout on the face climbing. small master cams are helpful. |
By rogerbenton
Jul 8, 2012
| pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:
pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains head up, diagonal right aiming towards the top of a good size pine tree at the horizon. Basically it's the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. easy climbing but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams guide says 80ft but more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty- terrible- dont use it. If i had a knife i'd have cut it. If anyone plans to go to the top bring some webbing and a knife. Actually, just bring the knife. No need to replace this anchor; if you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.
pitch 3: more easy but dirtier climbing about 30-40 ft to the top. lots of dirty, grassy ledges, careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. Very tempting to link these two pitches but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome. |
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