Cakewalk 

This is probably the softest 9 I've done at jtree. I'd call it 5.8 or maybe even 5.7 though I don't remember it THAT well. I recall it seeming easier than a lot of 8's that I did at approximately the same time (Continuum, Nurn's Romp, Dappled Mare, Dogleg, etc)...

I wasn't aware that ratings in a guidebook were holy writ. I don't see how height or a broken hold could have anything to do with the rating on this one - I was pretty tempted to just go ahead and give it 5.8 instead of the 5.9 the guidebook does because it really is no harder than 8. One of the nice things about a site like this is that we can bring the ratings to a consensus instead of the huge inconsistencies i found at jtree in just a few weekends there. If this climb was in Colorado or at Vedauwoo, it would be an easy 5.8

Very soft for a 5.9; it will be 5.8 in the new guide. Otherwise an excellent climb and well worth doing.

I'll buy the 5.8 rating. It is an exellent route but soft for 5.9.

I'm glad the rating for this route will drop to 5.8. As per some comments vis a vis changing ratings, JT is infamous for sandbagging. It does no harm to refine the ratings over time. Most ratings that change will be lowered and a few raised. I've heard on more than one occasion both guides referred to as the book of lies. Both Vogel and Bartlett do their best, and one way to do so is through recommendations from climbers.

Great route. Good pro all the way up. Nice traverse move in the middle.

Difficulty depends on height. The traverse move is hardest for shorter climbers, at least if my partner is a fair judge of that. This climb would be 3* if it had kept going as for the first 20M, but the top kicks back to low angle and is a little junky (loose blocks and dirt in the crack) and this robs the route of what it could have been by one star. Still very fun though.

I found it similar in many ways to Sail Away: good stances for gear, great nut placements, fun route, similar difficulty. But no queue at the base!

5.8, 5.8+, 5.9-, 5.9, 5.whatever.......it is an extreamly enjoyable route that protects very well. She loves those nuts. Easy to find, sun in the winter, surrounded by fantastic views and other great climbs, easy walkoff.what more could you ask? I see it as a must do and one to repeat time and time again. A new favorite of mine........regardless of it's rating.....

Like others have said, a very fun route and I could also see how there would be a long line if it was located in Hidden valley campground. Great pro for those leading near their limit.

Very very nice, fun route. Highly recomended.

I agree with Tony - there's a move on the traverse that is reach-dependent.

I've seen short people work harder at the traverse (look at my picture of Scott).

I climbed this route in the late afternoon of a perfect day one year, I was in good form (for a change) and had a fantastic time on it, almost an epiphany, for some reason it just stuck in my head.

A lot of the so called classic climbs at JT don't have a view of the desert floor half as good as this. The traverse adds a little spice and character, the rock is perfect, it's steep, the moves are athletic, there are no ledges anywhere, it's sustained at its grade. I think it's a classic - maximum stars.

As far as ratings are concerned the more people who offer an opinion the more accurate the grade - grades are built by consensus. So, I'd say 5.8.

Awesome route with lots of features on the face and around the crack. The holds at the crux are unbelievably "ergonomic"! Not too bad at all if you are tall enough and likes face holds.

As mentioned, the crux traverse move is totally height/reach dependent. At 6' this will feel like 5.7, at 5'3" it will feel like hard 5.9.

Did this a couple years back and remember it being super classic, one of my favorite moderate routes in the park. The traverse is awesome.

A fun warm up if you are confident at the grade. If you are pushing the grade a great climb that is easy to protect with many bomber nut placements. I'm 5'7 and found the traverse to be a bit exciting, but not bad once you figure out the feet. You can place a super good large nut before you make the traverse, quickdraw and sling it, then another bomber nut on the left crack, quickdraw and sling it. Do this and you will have very little rope drag.

I'd call it 5.8.

this route is really great,and gets excellent sun in the morning I welded a stopper on this thing a few years ago looking forward to revisiting it

The long traverse move left onto the huge jug is easy, but I spent a good five minutes at the stance before the traverse trying to figure out a "5.8" way to go straight UP the crack. So, look around. Fun climb, but not a great one. Lots of nuts and .5-1 BD cams.