|3,071 page views|
Scott Nomi makes a long reach on the traverse of C...
Cakewalk climbs an obvious crack on the south side of Freeway Wall, fairly high up the gully before reaching the highpoint of a small pass.
Climb the nice thin hand crack up to where the wall steepens and the crack thins. Traverse left a few feet to a juggy hand crack going over a small overhang. Head up and a bit right on the crack as it goes from hands to fingers to fist.
This is a nice sustained pitch. Pretty easy for 5.9 - this is a good lead for those breaking into 9.
Stoppers, cams to 3 inches.
just after the "crux" traverse move (I agree it's ...
Nice pic of Cakewalk. This guy was a Vet dermatolo...
Shane on Cake Walk
Liz Murray on the upper section
Fred Batliner past the traverse.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Cake Walk
BETA PHOTO: "Cake Walk" or is it "Cakewalk".
Photo by Blitzo.
Tony Bubb starts up the 'Cakewalk' (5.9) which is ...
Tony Bubb at the rest stance before the traverse m...
Jared leading Cakewalk while some trippy clouds bl...
I found the crux to be up high, not where I am rig...
Very nice climbing on cakewalk.
|By Josh Beck|
Dec 3, 2002
This is probably the softest 9 I've done at jtree. I'd call it 5.8 or maybe even 5.7 though I don't remember it THAT well. I recall it seeming easier than a lot of 8's that I did at approximately the same time (Continuum, Nurn's Romp, Dappled Mare, Dogleg, etc)...
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 4, 2002
I wasn't aware that ratings in a guidebook were holy writ. I don't see how height or a broken hold could have anything to do with the rating on this one - I was pretty tempted to just go ahead and give it 5.8 instead of the 5.9 the guidebook does because it really is no harder than 8. One of the nice things about a site like this is that we can bring the ratings to a consensus instead of the huge inconsistencies i found at jtree in just a few weekends there. If this climb was in Colorado or at Vedauwoo, it would be an easy 5.8
Jan 28, 2003
Very soft for a 5.9; it will be 5.8 in the new guide. Otherwise an excellent climb and well worth doing.
|By Rick Booth|
Feb 25, 2003
I'll buy the 5.8 rating. It is an exellent route but soft for 5.9.
|By Woody Stark|
May 13, 2003
I'm glad the rating for this route will drop to 5.8. As per some comments vis a vis changing ratings, JT is infamous for sandbagging. It does no harm to refine the ratings over time. Most ratings that change will be lowered and a few raised. I've heard on more than one occasion both guides referred to as the book of lies. Both Vogel and Bartlett do their best, and one way to do so is through recommendations from climbers.
Aug 21, 2003
Great route. Good pro all the way up. Nice traverse move in the middle.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2004
Difficulty depends on height. The traverse move is hardest for shorter climbers, at least if my partner is a fair judge of that. This climb would be 3* if it had kept going as for the first 20M, but the top kicks back to low angle and is a little junky (loose blocks and dirt in the crack) and this robs the route of what it could have been by one star. Still very fun though.
|By Mike Hack|
Nov 8, 2004
I found it similar in many ways to Sail Away: good stances for gear, great nut placements, fun route, similar difficulty. But no queue at the base!
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 22, 2004
5.8, 5.8+, 5.9-, 5.9, 5.whatever.......it is an extreamly enjoyable route that protects very well. She loves those nuts. Easy to find, sun in the winter, surrounded by fantastic views and other great climbs, easy walkoff.what more could you ask? I see it as a must do and one to repeat time and time again. A new favorite of mine........regardless of it's rating.....
|By Joe Brophy|
From: San Diego
Jan 18, 2005
Like others have said, a very fun route and I could also see how there would be a long line if it was located in Hidden valley campground. Great pro for those leading near their limit.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Jan 28, 2006
Very very nice, fun route. Highly recomended.
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 25, 2006
I agree with Tony - there's a move on the traverse that is reach-dependent.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 26, 2006
I've seen short people work harder at the traverse (look at my picture of Scott).
I climbed this route in the late afternoon of a perfect day one year, I was in good form (for a change) and had a fantastic time on it, almost an epiphany, for some reason it just stuck in my head.
A lot of the so called classic climbs at JT don't have a view of the desert floor half as good as this. The traverse adds a little spice and character, the rock is perfect, it's steep, the moves are athletic, there are no ledges anywhere, it's sustained at its grade. I think it's a classic - maximum stars.
As far as ratings are concerned the more people who offer an opinion the more accurate the grade - grades are built by consensus. So, I'd say 5.8.
|By David Wang|
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 5, 2006
Awesome route with lots of features on the face and around the crack. The holds at the crux are unbelievably "ergonomic"! Not too bad at all if you are tall enough and likes face holds.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 30, 2007
As mentioned, the crux traverse move is totally height/reach dependent. At 6' this will feel like 5.7, at 5'3" it will feel like hard 5.9.
From: San Francisco
Dec 14, 2009
Did this a couple years back and remember it being super classic, one of my favorite moderate routes in the park. The traverse is awesome.
|By Eric T.|
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Sep 27, 2011
A fun warm up if you are confident at the grade. If you are pushing the grade a great climb that is easy to protect with many bomber nut placements. I'm 5'7 and found the traverse to be a bit exciting, but not bad once you figure out the feet. You can place a super good large nut before you make the traverse, quickdraw and sling it, then another bomber nut on the left crack, quickdraw and sling it. Do this and you will have very little rope drag.
I'd call it 5.8.
|By Ross Hokett|
From: Fort collins,Colorado
Oct 23, 2012
this route is really great,and gets excellent sun in the morning I welded a stopper on this thing a few years ago looking forward to revisiting it
Nov 17, 2012
The long traverse move left onto the huge jug is easy, but I spent a good five minutes at the stance before the traverse trying to figure out a "5.8" way to go straight UP the crack. So, look around. Fun climb, but not a great one. Lots of nuts and .5-1 BD cams.