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Parking Lot Rock - Northeast
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Cairo 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, Tedd Thompson 1988
Page Views: 3,227
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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Classic route in my book.

Description 

On the north end of the east face, scramble up a gully to a short overhaning arete. Climb this technical and pumpy climb bouncing to the left side and back to the right near the top. If you stay right, it requires tough moves, calves of steel, and a right hand that has had the sweat glands removed. It also has less exposure.

Protection 

4 draws, maybe 5. Oh and 2 for the chains.


Photos of Cairo Slideshow Add Photo
Claudia on the sharp end in a very colorful settin...
Claudia on the sharp end in a very colorful settin...
Greg Troutman on top of Cairo
Greg Troutman on top of Cairo
Shaking out before the crux. photo Greg Troutman
Shaking out before the crux. photo Greg Troutman
Onsighting the short but fun Cairo 5.11a.
Onsighting the short but fun Cairo 5.11a.
Cairo 2009
Cairo 2009
Mevans crushing
Mevans crushing
cairo
cairo
Cairo (.11a) - Definitely one of best .11a's in th...
Cairo (.11a) - Definitely one of best .11a's in th...
Brassnuts, leading Cairo.
Brassnuts, leading Cairo.
It's been a while but I remember thin climbing on ...
It's been a while but I remember thin climbing on ...

Comments on Cairo Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

It's a bit on the short side, but still very fun.
By Iain Morris
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Short but sweet. It looks cool from Redtail.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

No doubt that the crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're up on the NE buttress doing "Thin Slice" try Cairo. Clean falls.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 9, 2008

I found the crux to be after the 4th bolt, am I missing something up there? Very interesting climbing.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Awesome route. A touch exciting on a windy day. More devious and tricky to read than hard between the 3rd bolt and the top.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 9, 2009

This one doesn't look like much from far away. Actually it doesn't look like much at all until you're actually on it making the moves. A fun short .11a with a definite crux. If you have good footwork you'll make quick work of this route.