Caging the Zealot 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | T. Goss, E. Jones |
| Submitted By: | jtwalter on Nov 19, 2007 |
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Lisa Pritchett leading Caging the Zealot
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Description Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt. Another moderate route that is destined to become a St. George classic, Caging the Zealot offers miles of good climbing with two small cruxes, both on the first pitch. First crux is about 15 feet off the small ledge where the routes diverge. Second crux is toward the top of the pitch and offers some great exposure. Pitch 1 - (5.10b, 140 feet, 15 bolts) Climb up the low angle ramp past 4 bolts to a small ledge. Continue up varnished holds climbing past the mid route rappel anchors to a great belay ledge (if you're belaying at the first set of anchors it's going to be a hanging belay). Pitch 2 - (5.8, 40 feet 4 bolts) Continue up easier climbing to the top of the wall. Descent - Rappel the route with 2 rappels. First rappel goes all the way down to hanging mid route rappel anchors.
Location Located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, Caging the Zealot is about 50 feet left The Visionaries. Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt.
Protection 15 bolts plus rappel anchors
BETA PHOTO: A-Past Lives 5.9 B-Caging the Zealot 5.10b C-Harsh...
| Caging the Zealot as seen from the Visionaries.
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| Comments on Caging the Zealot |
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By jtwalter From: Orem, UT Nov 21, 2007
| Routes to the left of Caging the Zealot are (from left to right): Harbinger - .11b Conditional Bliss - .10a |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Felt like the first pitch was no harder than 5.10a, maybe 5.9. Second pitch was 5.7ish. Juggy climbing. Really fun! |
By Ryan Henderson From: Pleasant View, UT Nov 6, 2012 rating: 5.10a/b
| Felt very similar (in style and grade) to Conditional Bliss. If you want variation and a bit of spice, try Mystic Dictator (not in the guide book but is on Mountain Project). Equal in the grade, but way different (bulge-y roofs!) |
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