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Area 51
Routes Sorted
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Balefire S 
Cage Match S 
Crossing the Line S 
Did you Kiss? S 
Free Range Show Poodle S 
Game Theory S 
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Lunate S 
Made in The Shade S 
Natural Regression S 
Next Time S 
Nope, just sex S 
Project, The S 
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Waco not Hueco S 
Way of the Cougared S 

Cage Match 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Woodruff
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: ---- on May 13, 2012

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South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>

Protection 

9 bolts plus anchor

Location 

Climbs the center of the main cave at Area 51. Look for the diagonal crack at the start and the splitter crack on the finishing headwall. Fully equipped with chain draws.

Description 

You'll understand where this route gets its name from when you lower from the chains, panting and covered with scrapes from head to toe. Essentially a crack climb, this route has been done on gear, and would be quite manageable to lead on gear if it weren't for the first 4 bolts of face and roof climbing.

The Williams guidebook recommends stick clipping the second bolt. Begin on some vertical terrain, climbing past a diagonal crack to a large jug. Pump out the roof on some good flakes and get ready for the technical crux at the fourth bolt. Make your way up in a chimney for a no hands rest. Exit the chimney with some 3D moves, being sure to not get wrapped up in the rope. If you're not fully bewildered at this point the final move to a jug at the sixth bolt will definitely get you a bit confused.

At the sixth bolt you reach the offwidth crack. The rock turns bleached white and the remaining bolts are widely spaced. The higher you climb the thinner the crack becomes, tapering all the way down to thin hands. Good rests and clipping stances keep the crack from getting too pumpy. The crack section is roughly 11a.

A healthy dose of kneebaring reduces the difficulty of this pitch.


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By Unassigned User
May 13, 2012

Not a good pick for a rainy day. The crack gets wet.