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Java Wall
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Americano 
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Caffeine 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, Sean Zavala 1996
Page Views: 2,873
Submitted By: Dr. Evil on Jul 2, 2006
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Description 

Start up the easy ramp, as for Espresso. From the top of the ramp, move right and climb a steep dihedral.


Location 

Java Wall, right of Espresso.


Protection 

12 bolts to bolted anchor.



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By protohyp designs
Oct 13, 2009

People really need to start rapping off these anchors. the right anchor is worn almost 1/2 the way through.

By RussellG
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

In addition to rapping if you are going to 'top rope' put draws in and don't go directly off the hooks.

By anil
From: santa barbara
Mar 3, 2013

The anchors on the top especially, the left looks it will snap anytime soon(3/2/2013). Beware if you're getting on this route and preparing to rappel.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 16, 2013

Another situation where a climber has disregarded the local ethic and placed his rope directly through the shuts.
Another situation where a climber has disregarded the local ethic and placed his rope directly through the shuts.



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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 16, 2013

Here's the climber leading up to the anchors on Caffeine, just prior to abusing the anchor by placing his rope directly through the shuts. Recognize him?
Here's the climber leading up to the anchors on Caffeine, just prior to abusing the anchor by placing his rope directly through the shuts. Recognize him?

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 16, 2013

We witnessed four parties toproping directly through the shuts on "Espresso," "Caffeine," "Bushwacked," and "The Hunger." When told it would be best to place their own draws/gear to preserve the anchors, their response was, "Yeah, we know." Another party responded, "my girlfriend only weighs 100 pounds and that won't wear the anchor much." But the practice continued on to other climbs for the remainder of the day. Better to hammer the shuts closed or replace the shuts with chains to discourage abuse of the anchors. Although, the party on "Bushwacked" took the time to thread their rope through the Fixe rings in order to TR directly through the anchor.