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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Dreaming, The S 
Bedtime Story S 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 
Bobsled, The S 
Caffeine Buzz S 
Chore Boy T,S 
Daily Grind, The S 
Golden Slumber T,S 
Lucky Strikes S 
Morpheus T,S 
Mr. Sandman S 
My Buddy S 
Napster S 
Not So Obscure T 
Opener S 
Sleepless Child T,TR 
Sleepless in Boulder S 
Smell the Coffee S 
Snooze Button S 
Something Obscure T 
Tooth Fairy S 
Wake Up Call S 
War On Freedom S 

Caffeine Buzz 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Frances Fierst, Mark Pierson, Vaino Kodas, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,202
Submitted By: Frances Fierst on Oct 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
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  • Description 

    Climb either Smell the Coffee or the Daily Grind. From the anchors, climb up and to the right on the face. The crux comes right after the third bolt. Move over the slight bulge on small edges. There is nice exposure and great views from the anchors at the top.

    This route can be combined with either of the two previous routes, just be sure to bring enough draws. A long draw is recommended at the bolt at the first set of anchors if you are combining these two climbs.

    To get down you need either two ropes to get to the ground, or one 60 meter rope. You can reach the anchors at the top of Napster, and make a second rappel to the ground.


    Protection 

    5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



    Photos of Caffeine Buzz Slideshow Add Photo
    Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wall
    BETA PHOTO: Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wal...
    Comments on Caffeine Buzz Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jan 3, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Not knowing what this was we did this as 1 pitch as a continuation of Daily Grind. Nice enough. Didn't seem particularly loose. A good pitch for a weak second to lead if he/she can't lead the easy 10s at Plotinus (which are very easy as 10s go). To see how soft many of the ratings are at this crag, do this climb and then do Cozyhang, a classic 7 trad on The Dome (which was rated 5.5 way back!). After Cozyhang you might conclude that Caffeine Buzz is 5.5.

    By Ken Heiser
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 10, 2004
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I think "Standard Route" on the Elephant Buttresses is a harder route than this one, and I am really sure that the "Owl" on the Dome is not only way better but technically more difficult. I did not find much redeeming value in this thing.

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 27, 2004
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Best done as one long pitch, continuing from Smell The Coffee or The Daily Grind, thus avoiding a hanging belay. Good face climbing past the third and fourth bolts; the loose-looking flakes on the left are easily avoided.

    The rappel to Napster leaves you at a small stance at the anchor; cramped for two people.The second person down can wait on the ledge just above the Napster anchor until the first person has rapped to the ground.

    By Chris O'Connor
    From: bouldertown, co
    May 8, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I think the best option for a warm-up on this wall is to link Smell the Coffe with Cafeine Buzz. It's a super 160ish foot pitch. As far as getting off, I think lowering the second to the ground from the top would make the process pretty simple.