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Cafe au Lait 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: D Quinn
Page Views: 1,972
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Bryan just after exiting the chimney.
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This one surprised me because the bottom of the route looks chossy and is a little loose in places but the climbing is super cool moderate chimney climbing and the rock gets better as you keep climbing. It's also a bit longer than it looks.

Climb the chimney clipping bolts on the left past some bad rock to a good stance continue up the chimney as the rock gets better clip bolts on the right. Many options for beta i ended up pulling a corkscrew move which is always fun. After the chimney ends climb moderate rock to the chains on the left.


Location 

Chimney just right of Juan Valdez (5.10b).


Protection 

7 bolts to anchor. Long draws on last 2 bolts help.



Photos of Cafe au Lait Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Cafe Au Lait; the climber is inside the stemming cave.
Looking up at Cafe Au Lait; the climber ...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 10, 2014
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I belayed a friend on this and he did the corkscrew aswell looks sweet!

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Dec 17, 2009

climbing it the whole way on the right side is also fun and adds maybe a half grade if you're looking for a variation.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 18, 2009

So Jake, would that make it a 5.6b, or would it be a 5.6c?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 18, 2009

5.6b/c :)

By James Otey
From: NH
Dec 23, 2009

I don't know lee, as with so many of the bouldery routes at rumney, its pretty height dependent. I'd say 5.6b if your above 6', 5.6c if your short.

By N Nelsen
From: Lincoln, NH
Jun 10, 2010

This is a great climb if you like chimneys. I've always ended up stemming facing out and have to rotate back to climb onto the ledge (I don't know if this is the "corkscrew move" that Matt mentioned.)

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 14, 2010

Cool chimney moves and a bit longer than I expected.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 14, 2010

This is an all right route, but you guys giving it 3 stars? You need to get around more. 3 stars is a great route, like Waimea. Giving it 3 stars only leaves 1 more to distinguish routes like Masterpiece, Centerpiece and China Beach from it. I liked it, but this thing deserves 1 star, maybe 2, if you were in a really good mood when you did it. I am not dissing the route, just would like the star ratings to have some accuracy relative to each other.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Personally I think it is 3 stars for a 5.6. When I give route a rating it is for routes at the grade not compared to routes 4 or more grades harder. This is just my personally way of doing it but I think many other people do it this way too :) So comparing it to Waimea is not a comparison I would like to take on but comparing it to False Modesty in the Meadows it is much better therefor giving it 3 stars instead of 2 :) IMO

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2010

Well i see where you are both coming from but i must say it is a system based on opinion so we have to deal with what others think of the route and put in our 2 cents... it is nice that you can see what each person graded the climb so you can be like "oh Lee gave it 4 stars and Jay gave it 1 so it must be somewhere in between " haha...

i always liked that Repentance (as a rock climb) got 4 stars on a 3 star scale in Ed Websters Cathedral guide... seeing as it is a nasty scary route...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Climbed this thing again today! I enjoy it so much every time. There was some ice on the opening part which made it more difficult, but it is just very enjoyable easy climbing. :)

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jun 13, 2011

Very fun climbing through the chimney

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
May 16, 2012

Super technical fun for beginners.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I have been doing a lot of 'green-pointing' lately (sport routes on trad gear), and I must say this route protects fairly well on gear. The first 15 feet really only has one place for natural pro but from the 15 foot point and above it protects very well.

By The Fat Kid
Sep 17, 2012

Be careful: We found and "x'd" a few loose holds; a helmet would be a wise option.

By Tighe Blackadar
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Really fun climbing! the moves felt really committing through the chimney but its really well protected. Found myself stemming facing outward which led to the corkscrew move for me as well.

There was one loose block about the size of a loaf of bread as you enter the chimney before getting to better rock worth mentioning.