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Café Americano 
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Café Americano 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ian Hanson April 8, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Ian Hanson on Apr 9, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: The route goes up the crack and through the roof.


Short, overhanging and pumpy! Pulling out of the roof crack is the crux. Get creative and look for holds when moving through the crack.


Look for the slanting roof crack and some trees at the top.


We used a few small nuts/micro-cams and a BD 3 and 4 for the crux. Shove the yellow cam as down near the bottom of the crack and the blue one as high as you can possibly reach. Have a selection of small nuts ready to place when moving out of the crack. Placing a BD 7 nut was the crux for me. Bring some extendable draws and slings to sling trees and reduce ropedrag. There isn´t currently a proper anchor (although one is planned, so please don´t add anything) so it is advised to create an anchor from the top before hand and throw it over the edge to be clipped.

Photos of Café Americano Slideshow Add Photo
Cleaning the route before an attempt at a ground up FA
Cleaning the route before an attempt at a ground u...
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