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Café Americano
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Ian Hanson April 8, 2013 |
Page Views: | 531 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Ian Hanson on Apr 9, 2013 |
Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan |
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Description
Short, overhanging and pumpy! Pulling out of the roof crack is the crux. Get creative and look for holds when moving through the crack.
Protection
We used a few small nuts/micro-cams and a BD 3 and 4 for the crux. Shove the yellow cam as down near the bottom of the crack and the blue one as high as you can possibly reach. Have a selection of small nuts ready to place when moving out of the crack. Placing a BD 7 nut was the crux for me. Bring some extendable draws and slings to sling trees and reduce ropedrag. There isn´t currently a proper anchor (although one is planned, so please don´t add anything) so it is advised to create an anchor from the top before hand and throw it over the edge to be clipped.
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