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 ADVANCED
Birthday Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Boulder TR 
Birthday Chimney T,TR 
Birthday Crack T,TR 
Bowing to the Undercling T,TR 
Caesarian Tower T,TR 
Caesarian West Face TR 
Chester's Chimney T,TR 
Doublemint T,TR 
Flux Capacitor Crack T,TR 
Flying Delorean T,TR 
Great White Hope T,TR 
Horner's Corner T,TR 
Left Twin, The T,TR 
Mitzvah T,TR 
Phallacy of Symbolism, The TR 
Right Twin, The T,TR 

Caesarian West Face 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland, TR, Tommy Deuchler first lead
Page Views: 1,566
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 21, 2002

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Remo on lower section.

Description 

The Caesarian West Face sits at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks formation. It is a tricky climb split into three sections. The lower section is climbed using the obvious horizontal crack. Move through the center section past the overhang using small face holds. Pull a hard mantle on the ledge to begin the last section. Climb the last section using the fingertip crack to the top.


Protection 

Top Rope



Photos of Caesarian West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Christina learns to swear
Christina learns to swear
Rhoads on the last moves.
Rhoads on the last moves.
The West Face of the Caesarian Tower
BETA PHOTO: The West Face of the Caesarian Tower
Rhoads moving towards the crux.
Rhoads moving towards the crux.
The Caesarian West Face (11) and the Caesarian Tower (12)
BETA PHOTO: The Caesarian West Face (11) and the Caesarian Tow...
Kelsen winding up for the dead point.
BETA PHOTO: Kelsen winding up for the dead point.
Good view of the start.
BETA PHOTO: Good view of the start.
Rhoads after sticking the crux.
Rhoads after sticking the crux.
Remo sticking the dead point.
BETA PHOTO: Remo sticking the dead point.
Rhoads very happy to be done with the lower section.
Rhoads very happy to be done with the lower sectio...
Comments on Caesarian West Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 6, 2011
By Anonymous
Mar 22, 2002

f.f.a. : rich bechler ,top rope

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 22, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

what is the history of this route? who put the bolts in up higher? has any one led it? i seem to remember it being very difficult. this is a killer line_

By rich bechler
Mar 23, 2005

I am listed as doing the ffa of this route,but in fact I did the 3rd.Pete did the 1st and tom did the 2nd.Of course if you talk to Tom he did the first and if you talk to Pete he did the first.

By rich bechler
Mar 23, 2005

The bolts where placed by the CMC to overcome their lack of free climbing skills.There is also a tower above the Caesarian that has a line of bolts up a overhanging face that we tried in vain to free climb. This may be a challenge for the new generation of ne'er-do-wells.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 23, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

rich,thanks fer the update.does that mean i got the "coveted" 4th ascent?

By Tom Hanson
Sep 4, 2008

I tr'ed this line circa 1980?
Does this mean I have the coveted 5th ascent?

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

Tried to lead it with great struggle and some hangs in 1992 or so. Bloody fingers at the very top from getting sloppy. Yuck. I believe I recall the fixed hardware being sketchy.

By Tradoholic
Jul 2, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Is the upper tower after the ledge with the bolts part of CWF?
"Using the finger tip crack to the top" does that mean going straight up the bolt line?
According to Sven's description it seemed like after the rest ledge (if the second tower is part of this climb) you should start on the right obvious crack and then traverse over left to the opposite corner to finish. This seemed like the easiest way to do it albeit not the most direct.
Straight up the bolt line seemed way over 12c.

By Tradoholic
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

We determined that, yes, the upper wall is part of the whole route. It's a bit weird to pull more of a slab face to a huge ledge, then pull an overhanging face on jugs but hey, your at Devils Lake, so sack up.

The bottom is the meat with moves (if you can pull them) that give a sense of floating up the face because of the dire nature of the feet. Chalk and scrubbing is a must.

Short people might complain that the dead point is reachy (like Remo did) but with the proper technique even the vertically challenged can easily stick it. It's a matter of finesse.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Excellent route!

By Tradoholic
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Yea, balancy moves with lots of core tension and a dead point that has to be done just right to avoid disappointment. I was overjoyed with just a TR ascent.

Remo threw a wobbler ("I HATE THIS CLIMB! FUCK!") after biffing three times in a row, then I made him take a rest and he sent next go, professing his undying love for the climb afterwards. The guy is a total nut.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Tom, go back to Railroad Tracks and see "The Dick".

By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Jan 5, 2011

Just talked to Pete Cleveland. He belayed Tommy Deuchler on this on lead he said. Not sure the date.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jan 6, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

cool, first I have heard of this.sure would be great to know what year. Dave Groth might know. peace etc ss