All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Canyon

Caddis Cliff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
Fix Location

Routes in Caddis Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Curving Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Glow Bug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Orange Zonker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	PMD T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Prince Nymph TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	San Juan Worm TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown Spire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wooly Bugger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

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Elevation:	8,000 ft
GPS:	40.42152, -105.22604 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,975 total · 33/month
Shared By:	Richard M. Wright on Dec 16, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

Caddis Cliff is a small south-facing cliff on the north side of the river. Most of the rock is rather broken up, but two bolted routes and a moderate trad line have been done. A very nice arete and a small spire in the middle of the wall make the river crossing worth the effort. The arete and the trad line are listed in BG's guide. The crag gets enough sun to offer a pleasant side trip even in December.

Getting There

Drive East 4.7 miles from the Mall Road. Park 100 yards downstream from the crag in large pullout. Wade the river or wait until it freezes enough to walk across.

L->R:

A. Prince Nymph, 11+ R/X, 1p, TR or gear.
B. Glow Bug, 8 R, 1p, 100', gear.
C. San Juan Worm, 7 R, 1p, 60', TR or gear.
D. Unknown Spire, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. PMD, 9, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
F. Wooly Bugger, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
G1. Curving Corner, 8, 1p, 80', gear or TR.
G2. Orange Zonker, 9, 1p, 95', gear.