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Mota Wall
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Cactus Pile S 
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Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Cactus Pile 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl Guthrie, Terrance Smith, Joseph Shwartz, 2004
Page Views: 1,082
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Feb 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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First Pitch

Description 

Three pitches of great climbing and scenery. One of the finest in the Potrero.

P1: 5.8 Great jugs follow 11 bolts to a good ledge. Crux near top with thin moves. 100 feet.

P2: 5.10b Balancy moves past 7 bolts to a hanging belay after 80 feet. About two-thirds of the way, you move right about 8 feet.

P3: 5.9 Nice moves to a beautiful ledge. Bring lunch. 9 bolts over 100 feet.

Rap with on 60M rope.

Location 

This is the leftmost route once inside the gate. Follow the red rock path to the base and move a little left. Dope Ninja is also on Mota Wall, but is much farther to the left and is accessed from OUTSIDE the gate.

Protection 

bolts as listed above


Photos of Cactus Pile Slideshow Add Photo
Nick leading the second pitch.  The traverse right can be seen after the third bolt.
Nick leading the second pitch. The traverse right...
Megan leading up pitch 1.
Megan leading up pitch 1.
Megan following the third pitch at the end of the day
Megan following the third pitch at the end of the ...
Enjoying the sun on a chilly January day.
Enjoying the sun on a chilly January day.

Comments on Cactus Pile Add Comment
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By Rob P.
From: Bay Area
Jan 12, 2009

I really enjoyed this route. In Dane Bass's book, it has no stars, but much prefered it to other climbs around it at the Mota Wall. The 3rd pitch of 5.9 is excellent.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jan 20, 2009

I think this is a great climb. Stay off of P4 and you have an EPC classic. The 10b pitch is a one move wonder, harder if you are short.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

Nice Starter multi pitch on the lower MOta. Mellow and smooth climbing with lots of sunshine!! Watch out for dropping stuff on people bellow because there will be lots of them!
By Rob Davis
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 29, 2014

Really wonderful short multipitch. Good belay stations and three distinctly different pitches.