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Cactus Flower 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ed Webster & Mark Rolofson, 1979
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: eDixon on Oct 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: the route follows the shade line in the middle of ...

Description 

This three pitch splitter is easily viewed from the road. It is a great route for those who like things a little wider.

P1 - Climb a flake crack up about 20 feet to reach the start of the splitter. Continue up hands, which quickly become cups, and then fists to a fixed anchor. (5.10, 110')

P2 - Continue up with more fists and offwidth past a drilled angle to a wide slot. Work into the slot and up to a fixed anchor. (5.10, 110')

P3 - Hands, fists, and offwidth will take you to a slightly sandy finish and a small ledge just below the rim. There is a "fixed" anchor here that could use some updating. (5.10+, 90')

Descent - We rappelled the route with a single 70m. Not sure if a 60m would do it or not.


Location 

Cactus Flower section of the walls. Right of the large chimney system and left of a large leaning pillar.


Protection 

C4 Camalots (1) #.5 - #1, (3) #2 - #4, (1) #5 & #6



Photos of Cactus Flower Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Sarah and Tom on the rad second pitch of Cactus Flower
Sarah and Tom on the rad second pitch of Cactus Fl...
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By bsmoot
Oct 3, 2008

I'm thinking the F.A. was Ed Webster and Mark Rolofson around 1979

By sam123456789
Nov 26, 2010

The last pitch rap anchor would really benefit from a replacement if anyone is headed up you might want to bring a bolt kit. 11-10-2010. Enjoy- this route is such a great classic!

By Alison Conrad
Oct 17, 2012

In addition to above mentioned gear rack, I would make these changes. A extra .5 cam is nice for the 1st and 3rd pitch. Also four 3.5's were nice and only take two #4 cams (old size). The crack was mostly 3-3.5 size.
The pitch ratings seemed to be p1 5.10, p2 5.10+ for last move in pod, and p3 5.11-. Rock quality deteriorates near the top. Has a desert tower feel. What an awesome climb! Get ready to get your fist crack on.

By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Oct 19, 2012

The big cams (#5, #6 camalots) are only needed on P.2- leave them at the top of p.2 and collect them on rap to avoid carrying those boat anchors to the top.....

By WadeM
Nov 4, 2013

No need for 6 on the last pitch, but make sure you two .5s on the last pitch.

The first 2.5 pitches are amazing!!!!! The last 15 feet are choss, becareful, but well worth the effort.

By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Perfect rack= (2) .5's, (1) #1 (3) #3's (3) #4's and (1) #5 or #6 (either will protect getting in and out of the pod). Crux of the route was the last move for me.