Cactus Flower 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Ed Webster & Mark Rolofson, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Oct 3, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: the route follows the shade line in the middle of ...
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Description This three pitch splitter is easily viewed from the road. It is a great route for those who like things a little wider.
P1 - Climb a flake crack up about 20 feet to reach the start of the splitter. Continue up hands, which quickly become cups, and then fists to a fixed anchor. (5.10, 110')
P2 - Continue up with more fists and offwidth past a drilled angle to a wide slot. Work into the slot and up to a fixed anchor. (5.10, 110')
P3 - Hands, fists, and offwidth will take you to a slightly sandy finish and a small ledge just below the rim. There is a "fixed" anchor here that could use some updating. (5.10+, 90')
Descent - We rappelled the route with a single 70m. Not sure if a 60m would do it or not.
Location Cactus Flower section of the walls. Right of the large chimney system and left of a large leaning pillar.
Protection C4 Camalots (1) #.5 - #1, (3) #2 - #4, (1) #5 & #6
| Comments on Cactus Flower |
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By bsmoot
Oct 3, 2008
| I'm thinking the F.A. was Ed Webster and Mark Rolofson around 1979 |
By sam123456789
From: c.heights, ut
Nov 26, 2010
| The last pitch rap anchor would really benefit from a replacement if anyone is headed up you might want to bring a bolt kit. 11-10-2010. Enjoy- this route is such a great classic! |
By Alison Conrad
Oct 17, 2012
| In addition to above mentioned gear rack, I would make these changes. A extra .5 cam is nice for the 1st and 3rd pitch. Also four 3.5's were nice and only take two #4 cams (old size). The crack was mostly 3-3.5 size.
The pitch ratings seemed to be p1 5.10, p2 5.10+ for last move in pod, and p3 5.11-. Rock quality deteriorates near the top. Has a desert tower feel. What an awesome climb! Get ready to get your fist crack on. |
By Dana Prosser
From: boulder,co
Oct 19, 2012
| The big cams (#5, #6 camalots) are only needed on P.2- leave them at the top of p.2 and collect them on rap to avoid carrying those boat anchors to the top..... |
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