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Rattlesnake Buttress
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200 Motels T 
Approach Pitch T 
Back Up Singers T 
Cactus Cooler T 
Eureka! S 
Foxtail Fryer TR 
Jojoba Heater T 
Pictures of Home T 
Roy's Route T 
Taken for Granite T 
Test Pilot T 

Cactus Cooler 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Sewell & Roy McClenahan 1979
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jan 8, 2013

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Cactus Cooler 5.10b follows the prominent right-le...

Description 

To the left of the bolted dike "Roy's Route" .11b is this nice right-leaning, right-facing corner with a thin crack. Scramble through some scrub oak and nolinas to reach an uncomfortable vegetated belay at the base. Mind the prickly pear cactus, too.

Climb up the fun tips-to-fingers corner (crux), to easier and wandering terrain above. This route really shines as a JTree "adventure climb" - expect to find some loose blocks, cactus, yucca, and some easy runouts enroute to the top. Belay on a sloping slabby ledge with a horizontal crack.


Location 

To the right of the main face containing "Taken for Granite" and "200 Motels". An obvious right facing corner down low.

To descend - see that 2" diameter scrub oak to your right with the slings? Well, you can risk rappelling off it, or just downclimb the 4th class corner back to the base like I did.


Protection 

Cams/nuts from tips to 3". The larger gear is useful for the belay. Helmet for your belayer is a good idea too.



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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 16, 2013

I tried to lead this route, but found it too difficult to stop and place gear on the go. The right wall offers very little for the feet and the liebacking is fairly sustained. On toprope the climbing is merely pleasantly pumper.