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Cactus Climb 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Carl & Lou Horak, 1971(?)
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 12, 2007
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Cactus Climb and BHJ.
Blue = Cactus Climb (as per ...

Description 

This climb is perhaps better now that the cactus isn't there.

Stem past tricky moves off the ground. Easy 5.6ish climbing for the next 30' of the climb leads to a final thin section where the crack narrows to a finger crack, then pinches to a seam. A 2' foot roofs bar progress to the top, which is passed by a big move for the topout jug. The pro at the crux is small nuts or TCUs.

It is also possible to escape left 2/3 of the way up and avoid the crux.


Location 

The shallow corner 10' left of the splitter crack (Beginner's Hand Jam). The namesake cactus used to reside on the first ledge 12' up, but it looks like it will never grow back.


Protection 

1 ea. cams to 2", 1 ea. nuts, including RPs.
A 2-bolt anchor for Cactus Climb, reachable from the very top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A fun 5.9-ish variation on this route is to move well to the left after the initial tricky start moves to a the nice-but-too-short wide finger crack to shallow dihedral.

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

I had to give it a PG13 because the 20ft of 5.8/5.9 climbing in the middle is riddled with holds ready to break... but the hard moves have good rock and gear.