Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
7. Sunday Buttress
Select Route:
Avoiding the Bat TR 
Balcony Center TR 
Balcony Right T,TR 
Cactus Capers TR 
No Go Crack T,TR 
Warrior's Waltz TR 

Cactus Capers 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Cactus Capers onsight lead


Starts about 15 feet right of Balcony Right directly under a large protruding block on top of the cliff. Face climb up to a break in the roof which initially includes a right-facing corner. Crank over the roof (crux) head towards the right side of the overhanging block on top.


Standard Blue Mounds toprope or possibly a very scary lead with little or no pro below the roof.

Photos of Cactus Capers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus Capers onsight lead
Cactus Capers onsight lead

Comments on Cactus Capers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think 10b/c is a little generous for this climb! It was originally rated 5.9 and I believe that feels pretty accurate.
By Sam Smolnisky
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 20, 2011

There is gear to protect before the roof. A few medium sized nuts and a few hand sized cams will get you up and over the roof.
By Jon Marek
From: Fall City, WA
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Protection on this route is actually quite good. 1 medium/large nut on a long runner can be placed at the rest before the roof, and a yellow cam goes nicely into one of the pods under the roof (don't put it in the wrong one or the crux is harder). After the roof, there is no pro but the climbing is 5.3.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!