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 ADVANCED
7. Sunday Buttress
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Avoiding the Bat TR 
Balcony Center TR 
Balcony Right T,TR 
Cactus Capers TR 
No Go Crack T,TR 
Warrior's Waltz TR 

Cactus Capers 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 26, 2006

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Description 

Starts about 15 feet right of Balcony Right directly under a large protruding block on top of the cliff. Face climb up to a break in the roof which initially includes a right-facing corner. Crank over the roof (crux) head towards the right side of the overhanging block on top.


Protection 

Standard Blue Mounds toprope or possibly a very scary lead with little or no pro below the roof.



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By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think 10b/c is a little generous for this climb! It was originally rated 5.9 and I believe that feels pretty accurate.

By Sam Smolnisky
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Oct 20, 2011

There is gear to protect before the roof. A few medium sized nuts and a few hand sized cams will get you up and over the roof.

By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Protection on this route is actually quite good. 1 medium/large nut on a long runner can be placed at the rest before the roof, and a yellow cam goes nicely into one of the pods under the roof (don't put it in the wrong one or the crux is harder). After the roof, there is no pro but the climbing is 5.3.