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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Zombies on the Lookout 

Cabana Boy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
FA: ?? T. Bubb and C. Parks 11/16/2002 ??
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002
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  • Description 

    This may be a FA, or it may not. If not, I wonder what the other fool who did it was thinking. I don't know what we were thinking... it was a dirt-fest, although it is cleaner with less loose rock now. If it is not a F.A. I am hoping someone will let me know here. The features are not described anywhere in any guidebook I have seen.

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Continue up the ladder and walk a perhaps 50 yards further to a ledge full of creeping Barberry (looks like Holly) that forms the bottom of and inset in the wall. There are overhanging dihedrals on each side. The one on the right I have presumed to be the top half of the route Senora. The one on the left is much less appealing and quite a bit harder... and called "Cabana Boy."

    Climb up the dirty handcrack from the very back of it, with stems and smears to both sides until the crack goes vertical. The climb is probably easy 5.10, but as it was cleaned and climbed simultaniously, this is was actually somewhat hard to determine. If you put the wall on the left "out of bounds" the climb is hard 5.10. Comtinue up to the top of this short wall, perhaps 40 feet in all to a ledge and belay.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.


    Protection 

    A set of cams from 2" to 4"



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