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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Senora (??) 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Cabana Boy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
FA: ?? T. Bubb and C. Parks 11/16/2002 ??
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002
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  • Description 

    This may be a FA, or it may not. If not, I wonder what the other fool who did it was thinking. I don't know what we were thinking... it was a dirt-fest, although it is cleaner with less loose rock now. If it is not a F.A. I am hoping someone will let me know here. The features are not described anywhere in any guidebook I have seen.

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Continue up the ladder and walk a perhaps 50 yards further to a ledge full of creeping Barberry (looks like Holly) that forms the bottom of and inset in the wall. There are overhanging dihedrals on each side. The one on the right I have presumed to be the top half of the route Senora. The one on the left is much less appealing and quite a bit harder... and called "Cabana Boy."

    Climb up the dirty handcrack from the very back of it, with stems and smears to both sides until the crack goes vertical. The climb is probably easy 5.10, but as it was cleaned and climbed simultaniously, this is was actually somewhat hard to determine. If you put the wall on the left "out of bounds" the climb is hard 5.10. Comtinue up to the top of this short wall, perhaps 40 feet in all to a ledge and belay.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.


    A set of cams from 2" to 4"

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