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CA Ice Climbing Conditions: North Peak - North Couloir
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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 17, 2012
P3 on Nutcracker.
Hey, I am interested in climbing North Peak - North Couloir (Right). Is there going to be any ice in this late into the season or is the snow kicked in. Thanks.

If anyone knows of any where else to go ice climbing let me know.

FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
Nov 17, 2012
Bucky
Hey Josh,

We have already had a minimum of 10-12 inches of snow in the high country this fall, thus there is probably very little chance there is any ice showing at this point. That's not to say that you can't climb North Peak, but my guess is that you are going to be dealing with some unconsolidated snow. Besides, Tioga Pass is closed right now and it is quite possible that it won't reopen again this year. If this the case, you will need to hike/skin in from the road closure gate which will add a substantial amount to your approach. Nevertheless, if you are intent on going, try calling the folks at Sierra Mtn. Center to see if they have any clue as to what is going on up high.

As far as ice is concerned, some of the early season stuff might be in to the north and south of Lee Vining (though Lee Vining itself is probably not in yet). If you want info on ice (including early season stuff), try picking up SP Parker's book; see here:

maximuspress.com/shop/proddeta...

Good luck.

FLAG
By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 17, 2012
P3 on Nutcracker.
PERFECT! Thanks for the link to the book.

FLAG
By Stephan Doyle
Nov 20, 2012
Parker's book is indeed good. The best (and only) guide to CA ice. I found it online as a PDF for free; you might be able to find it that way as well...

Recent powder and warm temperatures will have scarce ice that's difficult to access. I am assuming that north peak will be out until the summer climbing season with the rest of the Sierra couloirs. We should start to see some water ice in the coming weeks.

FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
Nov 20, 2012
Bucky
Stephan Doyle wrote:
Parker's book is indeed good. The best (and only) guide to CA ice. I found it online as a PDF for free; you might be able to find it that way as well...


Seriously? Stephan, how about you do the right thing and buy the actual book. Really. Go online to the Maximus website and buy a copy (it doesn't matter that you already have a "copy"). Otherwise you are stealing from a super nice guy who did the community a great service by writing a book for all of us to use.

FLAG
By Stephan Doyle
Nov 20, 2012
J. Albers wrote:
Seriously? Stephan, how about you do the right thing and buy the actual book. Really. Go online to the Maximus website and buy a copy (it doesn't matter that you already have a "copy"). Otherwise you are stealing from a super nice guy who did the community a great service by writing a book for all of us to use.


FWIW, I didn't go looking for a PDF. I googled it, and if I recall correctly it was from a university website and seemed legit.

FLAG


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