Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
C2 Aiding What are the huge hooks used for?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Apr 8, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
I am still new to the world of big wall and aiding. I have no idea why such large hooks like the Pika Iribis, BD bat Hook, or Fish Hooks are required on hooking routes.

The smaller hooks, cam hooks, beaks, and rurps make sense to me but I cannot understand the need for such large heavy hooks.

What am I missing? Got any good stories where it was a critical piece?
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Apr 8, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of w...
Top edge of a flake or a funky ledge. Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Joined Feb 13, 2013
69 points
Apr 8, 2013
getting ready for the final roof series
Little hook are for little edges bigger hooks are for bigger edges. If the lip of a flake is rounded the smaller hook may not be able to reach a place to get purchase, thus a bigger hook is needed. Plus they inspire a bit more confidence. No matter what size hook I am using it always feels sketchy. Calvino
From Newhalem, WA
Joined May 1, 2010
200 points
Apr 8, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex ...
We're aid climbers. We couldn't possibly wrap our hands over the top of a flake and use it as a free climbing handhold. ;)

You don't use big hooks a lot, but when you need them, they are very handy. There is a rightwards traversing pitch on South Seas/P.O. where they come in pretty handy, hooking along the top of a big flake. I suppose you could free climb it, though, not sure.

They can also work for pro occasionally when nothing else will.
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Joined Dec 8, 2007
640 points
Apr 9, 2013
Classic PTPP short story:

At the base of New Dawn, PTPP asks Jon if he saw the bag of hooks needed for the first pitch, which he hadn't... they were in the truck... and at this point Stan chimes in something like: "I seem to remember the PTPP big wall checklist, blah blah blah" that was good for a great laugh! but no worries, they got it done

Scott
Scott Stoveken
Joined Mar 11, 2012
0 points
Apr 11, 2013
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
There is a rightwards traversing pitch on South Seas/P.O. where they come in pretty handy, hooking along the top of a big flake.

Are you thinking of the Central Latitudes? That goes left to right, ending where the PO and South Seas join up. Two big hooks were definitely handy there.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Apr 11, 2013
P6 Bivy during the massive Rim Fire.
Big hooks catch big falls.

Mark Hudon took a 50 footer on Native son last year, A big pika ibis caught his fall.

I have used mostly the fish large throw hooks. They shine on loose flakes you CANNOT free climb.
mucci
From sf ca
Joined Jan 29, 2007
478 points
May 6, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Used a giant Vermin V4 hook this weekend on the end of the first pitch of El Cap Tree Route. Glad I had the big one as it was super secure. The deflection it was interesting as it would slide the back end of the hook down a bit and seat well on the flake. randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
May 7, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.
They aren't really that heavy and they are very useful for hooking large, rounded flakes and ledges. I haven't led an aid pitch on El Cap in the last four years where I haven't had my Pika "Meat hook" with me. Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
May 16, 2013
home
the traversing pitch on New Dawn, 11 or 12. they are very handy there. again, the top of a large flake where smaller hooks may or may not be as bomber. climbingsolo
Joined May 13, 2013
26 points
May 17, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.
A perfect fit!
A perfect fit!
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
May 17, 2013
Mark's picture really sums it up. It's not so much the size of the edge (you could hook that same edge with a tiny hook), as it is the radius required to get the tip of the hook to seat into any crack/indentation/etc at the joint of the edge/wall or wherever you find something to seat the tip...which is often a shallow, drilled divot on the edge (an "enhanced" hook placement...more common that you'd think on El Cap routes..at least IME) Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,274 points
May 17, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.
Another example
Another example
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Jun 19, 2013
Batman Pinnacle
Mark, why the sling/biner taped to the arch of the hook? Scott O
From California
Joined Mar 30, 2010
26 points
Jun 19, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.
Scott....for orientation on the rack....otherwise that big hook catches and snags on EVERYTHING including you. Also, falling with the hook oriented the other way is a good way to get evicerated. Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Joined Jan 2, 2007
12,619 points
Jun 19, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.
Benjamin has it exactly right.

Run a sling like that through the hole at the top of your beaks and Tomahawks for the same reason. Color code them according to size also.
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Jun 19, 2013
Batman Pinnacle
Will do. Thanks guys. Scott O
From California
Joined Mar 30, 2010
26 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!