Located 100 yards southwest of the firetower on the formation known as Digital Tower, this route either starts on the arete or in a crack to the left. This route is on the planar, south-facing wall of Digital Tower. If you start on the arete, step left at 50' unless you want to do the 12d arete. The route has two cruxes and a rather distracting view. Enjoy.
16 bolts if you start on the arete, cams to 2" if you follow the crack to the left.
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Digital Tower.
Chris Cavallaro eye balling the crux.
|By david goldstein|
Sep 9, 2007
Excellent. Steeper than other climbs in the grade I've done at Devils Head. Great position, stone and a pumpy crux that can set you up for failure.
|By Derek Lawrence|
Oct 19, 2009
Awesome route! Amazing postion! Felt hard for 11c to me - couldnt get clean - perhaps 5.11c++ ??
|By Johny A|
From: Aurora . CO
Oct 29, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
|By Ernie Moskovics|
Sep 14, 2012
FA Ernie Moskovics and Tod Anderson, probably 1997. Story is, when Tod, Dave, and I first explored the East Valley of DH, we saw this line and I said, "it's the best thing in the draw". So, we TR'd it but did not link a key section on TR that day. Dave moved to Calgary, but Tzilla and I carried on, and the key was to stab and stem left for the setup to crimp the thin crack that leads up right through the crux. Tod insisted on adding a bolt on the flat wall going into the crux, so it may appear over-bolted in that section.
This is maybe the best route I was ever involved with installing and sending at DH, though it is short.
|By Glenn Schuler|
From: Monument, Co.
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
.11c++, haha yes! Love the name, loved the route! For a single pitch sport route, this thing is pretty epic. Sustained upper headwall, awesome views - DH climbing at its best. Bring some long runners for the middle section to avoid rope drag.