C. W. Hicks Direct
||Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973 - direct (original A.2 pitch) Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, and Herb North, 1981|
|Season: ||Fall, winter, spring|
|Page Views: ||1,205|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Nov 12, 2006|
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To the left of Magnolia Thunder Pussy look for a steep line with a well defined dihedral in the middle. The first pitch does not see much (any?) action and is quite dirty. We avoided the first pitch by climbing pitch 1 of Magnolia. So, however you go about it find your way up the base of the large dihedral. This is a demanding pitch with thin technical moves down low with small pro and more strenuous moves out of a slot. I fell on this pitch pulling a small cam out. Very technical if I remember correctly. Will probably feel 11aish, though the grade we had was .10c. Belay at a small stance on the right side not too far after the slot. On the last pitch, climb left to a handcrack and through some thuggy 5.9 terrain to an easier chimney to the top.
To the right of the Swamp Slabs past a VERY large dihedral system, C.W. Hicks is the next system right.
Standard rack, maybe some extra small wires, steel or brass. Cams from small to large.
By Larry Coats
Sep 9, 2007
This route was named after buddy Charles Wellington Hicks because they thought his name sounded cool. FA: Rusty Baillie and Karl Karlstrom as a 5.9, AO (off a couple of fixed pins that aren't there anymore. Then the rest of your FFA info is correct.
By Zach Harrison
May 8, 2014
If suiting up for the first pitch, a slider nut in a square pin scar may keep you off the ground at the crux, or not. Fun liebacking for the rest of the pitch. Brass offsets are pretty helpful low on pitch 2. Quite a good line.