C. W. Hicks Direct
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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Treiber, Byrd, Parker, 5.10+ upper route 1973 - direct (original A.2 pitch) Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, and Herb North, 1981|
|Season: ||Fall, winter, spring|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Nov 12, 2006|
To the left of Magnolia Thunder Pussy look for a steep line with a well defined dihedral in the middle. The first pitch does not see much (any?) action and is quite dirty. We avoided the first pitch by climbing pitch 1 of Magnolia. So, however you go about it find your way up the base of the large dihedral. This is a demanding pitch with thin technical moves down low with small pro and more strenuous moves out of a slot. I fell on this pitch pulling a small cam out. Very technical if I remember correctly. Will probably feel 11aish, though the grade we had was .10c. Belay at a small stance on the right side not too far after the slot. On the last pitch, climb left to a handcrack and through some thuggy 5.9 terrain to an easier chimney to the top.
To the right of the Swamp Slabs past a VERY large dihedral system, C.W. Hicks is the next system right.
Standard rack, maybe some extra small wires, steel or brass. Cams from small to large.
|Comments on C. W. Hicks Direct
|By Larry Coats|
Sep 9, 2007
This route was named after buddy Charles Wellington Hicks because they thought his name sounded cool. FA: Rusty Baillie and Karl Karlstrom as a 5.9, AO (off a couple of fixed pins that aren't there anymore. Then the rest of your FFA info is correct.