c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Anthony on Baby, placing his #5
Along the Cliff
This stretch of cliff is especially dense in the 5.6 - 5.8 range of classics. It includes 3 walls: the Frog's Head
, the Drunkard's Delight
area, and the Arch
The leftmost portion of this area is marked by the lightning-strike offwidth of Baby
. The Frog's Head
wall itself ends at the huge left-facing corner of Maria
; Frog's Head
is the most obvious hand- and finger-crack in the middle of the wall.
The next major wall, just past the roof of Jean
, is the Drunkard's Delight
wall, which continues with a low overhang. Drunkard's Delight
has a remarkably "bouldery" start, and follows a crack to a (hysterically fun) roof.
Past the right end of the head-height overhang, you'll find the huge right-facing corner of Bloody Bush
, and the major arch of, you guessed it, Arch
; downhill from that route, you'll find a low arete, Ribs
, which marks the start of the next section, d. Strictly - Shockley's
Mixing it up above the GT ledge is a worthwhile option here. Between Frog's Head
and Morning After
, you have the option of finishing on the last pitch of Maria
, a classic "5.6" roof; either last pitch of Sixish
(5.4 or 5.10); Drunkard's
very nice 5.5 corner; the 5.8 last pitch of Sixish
; or the 5.9 corner-roof of Arc of a Diver
, all within an easy walk on the GT ledge. Approach:
Most routes are accessed from the trail below the Baby
The Uberfall Descent
is still a quick and useful option from the clifftop, especially on a crowded day.
There are two sets of rappel bolts at the GT Ledge on the Frog's Head
Wall: above City Lights
(also useful for Son of Easy O
and Pas de Deux
), and just to the right of Frog's Head
(also for Sundown and Maria
). Above Baby
, a tree with rappel rings is best to avoid using, due to the plethora of pebbles and the likelyhood of unaware parties below. Mid-cliff, there are anchors for Easy Overhang
, City Lights
and Frog's Head
that are also easily accessed from neighboring routes.
For Drunkard's Delight
(and Sixish), there is a tree at the GT Ledge of Drunkard's Delight
from which you'll really
want to use two ropes. Other routes right of Drunkard's Delight
also feature tree rappels with mid-cliff options for single ropes.
For the Arch
area, there is a bolted (single-rope) rappel line to climber's right, over the route Ribs
The pictures below are in geographical order, to help you orient yourself within the area. Fetus
: 5.9+, PG-R Baby
: 5.6, G-PG (**) Twisted Sister
: 5.8, G (**) Easy Overhang
: 5.2, PG (**)
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X Son of Easy O
: 5.8, G (**)
Heather: 5.9, R-X Pas de Deux
: 5.8, PG (**) Patty Duke
: 5.8 (**) City Lights
: 5.7, G-PG (**) Night Fall
: 5.10, R Frog's Head
: 5.6-, G (**) Maria
: 5.6+, PG (**) Maria Direct
: 5.9, G Sundown
: 5.8+, PG (**)
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG Jean
: 5.9, PG Precarious Perch
: 5.9, PG Sixish
: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X Drunkard's Delight
: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R Morning After
: 5.8-, PG Bloody Mary
: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G Arc of a Diver
: 5.9, G Rock and Brew
: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R Crusty Waffles
, 5.10 Trusty Rifle
: 5.9, G Bloody Bush
: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG Wrist
: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG Arch
: 5.5-, PG Arch Direct
: 5.9, PG Billy Shears
: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
35 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for c. Frog's Head - the Arch:
Sixish 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Arch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches
Wrist 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Baby 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Maria 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Bloody Bush 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
City Lights 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Jean 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Son of Easy O 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NY
: The Gunks
: ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
This may be the best 5.8 at the Gunks if you link both pitches: you get thin face moves, jamming, a long traverse, and a thuggish roof.Use the same access trail as for City Lights, just below the striking widening crack of Baby. The climb starts 45' left of City Lights, at a thin jagged crack with a piton about 15' up.P1: Thin face climbing and jamming will lead to a 2' ledge. 5.8, 90'. Build your own belay either directly under the corner above, or on gear 15' to the left, or exit...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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