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 ADVANCED
Left Hand Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Byron's Ladder S 
Dark Days T 
Gilded Lily S 
Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) S 
Guilted Willy TR 
Left Dihedral T 
Lilies of the Valley T 
T-Rect T,S 
Triceratops T,S 

Byron's Ladder 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Byron Prinzmetal
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,669
Submitted By: Croy T on Aug 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Elation and a high five after her climb.

Description 

August 24, 2009 Left Hand Rock - I rope soloed a new, unknown 5.2 sport route right of Dark Days (the deep chimney just right of Lilies of the Valley and Gilded Lily). This is an all sport route with 9 bolts. It starts right and below a stack of flakes, straight up and gains a rib. It follows the right side of edge of water streak. It goes to brown painted hangers and rap rings. It is a good option for starting newbies and training lead climbers. The bolt placements will require lead climbers to think about the use of different lengths of draws and slings to reduce rope drag. Using several of the upper bolts as directionals provides new top rope climbing below and left of the anchor. A 60 meter rope works fine. This climb and anchor, coupled with T-Rect and Triceratops, both 5.7+, now opens up the entire right shoulder of Left Hand Rock to a wide range of top roping with 3 easily accessed anchors. This development could potentially reduce the waiting for more experienced climbers to get on the more moderate popular climbs like Index Toe and Middle Toe. This will also reduce any perceived pressure on the new climbers to get out of the way of those waiting.

Location 

This is to the right of Dark Days (the deep chimney just right of Lilies of the Valley and Gilded Lily).

Protection 

9 bolts - see description. Some long slings (24") to reduce rope drag.


Photos of Byron's Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
The route follows the right side of the low-angle water streak.
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the right side of the low-angle ...
Bruce Lee, 55, making quick work of his first rock climb.
Bruce Lee, 55, making quick work of his first rock...
Ann Lee climbing her first rock climb. <br /> <br />Thanks for creating a nice intro rock climb.
Ann Lee climbing her first rock climb. Thanks for...
Lucy Paik, 72, climbing around the crux on her first rock climb ever. Way to go, grandma!
Lucy Paik, 72, climbing around the crux on her fir...
Peter Paik, 73, climbing his first rock climb ever. Way to go, grandpa!
Peter Paik, 73, climbing his first rock climb ever...
Hey, are there some nuts up there?
Hey, are there some nuts up there?

Comments on Byron's Ladder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik in NC
From: Greensboro, NC
Oct 4, 2009

Would be an easy first lead for someone. The first two bolts are kind of pointless, though. I don't think they actually protect much of anything.
By Charlie Stump
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 1, 2010

Agreed, first couple of bolts totally pointless. There is a lot of rope rub towards the top.
By Byron Prinzmetal
May 11, 2011

I put this in to easily get to the top for the two sport routes to the left. I call this Byron's Ladder. The point that the first two bolts are worthless is true and that there is a lot of rope drag is also true.
By Walt Barker
From: Reno NV
Apr 23, 2012

Enjoyable climb for new leader, etc. First two bolts could keep someone from careening down the gully if they cart-wheeled, no?