Byrd's Classic 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on May 25, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Byrd's Classic - Second roof and hand crack above ...
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Description P1 - Climb up the corner and traverse left below a roof or take the wide-hand crack direct start (5.9). Follow the crack system to below another roof and traverse right. Finish up with a short splitter to a tree at a ledge. P2 - From the tree on the belay ledge, move left and climb the unprotected face. This pitch in seldom done.
Location Start left of the Watch Crystal and Apple Cider in a corner near a large tree.
Protection Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot.
- Bring an extra hand-sized cam if doing the direct start.
BETA PHOTO: Byrd's Classic - leading the first roof.
| BETA PHOTO: The splitter at the top of Byrd's Classic.
| The Byrd's Classic rappel. Climb Byrd's to the tr...
| BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2, "seldom done" 40' runout on moderate face...
| Dass anchor looking down.
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| Comments on Byrd's Classic |
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By Seth Hunter Mar 6, 2011
| Why has no one put up a bolted anchor at the top of this route? I've always seen people on it, so it gets the traffic that it deserves, but the absence of chains at the top makes it extremely hard to clean for a TR. I know TR'ing at East A is "Lame", but you got to learn some how. |
By IanA From: Durango, CO Mar 9, 2011
| There has been a bolt anchor installed on two different occasions over the last 10 years, but someone in the community seems to take it upon themselves to chop it. I do agree that a bolted belay is no necessary since you can equalize the tree and a #3 Camalot, but it would be convenient to not have to walk over to either "Angel Dust" or "No Justice for Rodney." Most of all a bolted belay would ensure that we don't kill the poor tree that has suffered abuse for the sake of our recreational enjoyment. |
By Kevin Sainio From: Durango, CO Mar 28, 2011 rating: 5.8+
| I totally agree with a bolted anchor. Most other climbs at EA have a bolted anchor. I don't see how this goes against any kind of "ethic". Save the tree! |
By Lee Frazer Jun 3, 2011
| I agree. Let's save the tree. |
By eDixon From: Durango, Colorado Jul 12, 2011
| I agree with adding a bolt anchor to this thing. It's a quality route and gets a good amount of traffic. |
By Devin Fin From: DURANGO Aug 23, 2012
| Hi, very proud an strong climbing community my name is Devin Finuane.... I have called East A my home TRAD zone for 20 years and love it!!!! On 8/22/12 I put some bomber rap rings left of the tree that has seen far far to much wear... if you got a problem with that, let me know and I will have a smart conversation with you ... hell I even buy you a beer ... please don't chop...this line is sick and needs an anchor..... Let that tree grow free, brothers and sisters. Thanks. The bolts are hand drilled 6 inch 5 pice Rawls glued in with epoxy and well out of sight. |
By Ben Kiessel Sep 3, 2012
| Thanks for taking the time, Devin! Hopefully people will leave them alone. |
By samtoine Sep 14, 2012
| Thank you, Devin, and great job with the moss! |
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