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The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Crack, The T 
Boondoggle T 
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 
Feather S 
Friar, The T 
J + J Groove T 
Lemon Bomb T 
Red Zinger T 
Skyline T 
Trim T 
Unknown T 
V Formation T 
Whoosh T 
Wrangler Hero? T 
Xyphoid Fever T 
Xyphoid Left T 
Unsorted Routes:

Byrd Pinnacle Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Herbst, John Byrd, Matt McMackin, Nanouk Borche
Page Views: 1,037
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Dec 7, 2008

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Maurice Horn starting Byrd Pinnacle Left.

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


This is the attractive set of double cracks on the left side of the formation, leading up through varnished rock to a crack slanting up and right to the finish. Rated 7+ in Handren's guide, we'd kick it up to a solid 8 but you decide. Very good pitch.


Byrd Pinnacle is down and right of Red Zinger, across the gully from the Friar and easy to spot as one walks into the mouth of Oak Creek. The striking off-width crack through the roof right of this route, named Xyphoid Fever, is a good landmark.


Good pro readily available. As per Handren's suggested rack.

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By calicodan
Nov 9, 2009

Just did this route yesterday. Great time, but one of the bolted anchors atop the pinnacle was missing. The rappel now consists of one bolt with chain, and two faded runners with fixed knots and rings.
By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2011

great route for the winter time. gets sun all day. no crowds.
By Nardo
Jan 20, 2012

The anchor is still just one bolt and old Slings. The slings are tied into a knot and jammed into a crack. Oh...and has anyone gone up the chimney for the second half of the climb??
By Ben Townsend
Apr 4, 2014

Replaced the jammed-knot backup on the top anchor with fresh cord around the block, plus a screw link.
By weisseseis
Nov 3, 2014

I went up the chimney. It's well protected with a 2 or a 3, but the pinnacle-side wall of the chimney has lots of very hollow flakes that might get pulled off.
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