|The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
This is the attractive set of double cracks on the left side of the formation, leading up through varnished rock to a crack slanting up and right to the finish. Rated 7+ in Handren's guide, we'd kick it up to a solid 8 but you decide. Very good pitch.
Byrd Pinnacle is down and right of Red Zinger, across the gully from the Friar and easy to spot as one walks into the mouth of Oak Creek. The striking off-width crack through the roof right of this route, named Xyphoid Fever, is a good landmark.
Good pro readily available. As per Handren's suggested rack.
Nov 9, 2009
Just did this route yesterday. Great time, but one of the bolted anchors atop the pinnacle was missing. The rappel now consists of one bolt with chain, and two faded runners with fixed knots and rings.
From: las vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2011
great route for the winter time. gets sun all day. no crowds.
Jan 20, 2012
The anchor is still just one bolt and old Slings. The slings are tied into a knot and jammed into a crack. Oh...and has anyone gone up the chimney for the second half of the climb??
|By Ben Townsend|
Apr 4, 2014
Replaced the jammed-knot backup on the top anchor with fresh cord around the block, plus a screw link.